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Using Watercolours for Illustration

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Using watercolour for her professional illustration work, commercial illustrator Emma Dibben paints in the studio, outdoors and while travelling. Her clients include Kew Gardens, The Guardian, Penguin Books and Waitrose and her work spans packaging, food illustration, books, maps and typography. Here she shares the contents of her mobile studio, the benefits of using watercolour for illustration, and she provides some insight into the practical side of working with different designers and clients. Emma has also collaborated with Sennelier to curate a special set of vibrant watercolours inspired by her needs as a modern illustrator.

 

Emma Dibben

Emma Dibben’s studio

 

Words and images by Emma Dibben

When I first discovered watercolour at a young age I was blown away by the quality of the paint and what was possible with this highly versatile medium, and I continue to be as the explorations with paint are never ending. I love how you can use it quite thickly or in washes. I love watching how the shapes form and the colours bleed together as you add water and layers of paint, as if the paint itself directs the work. Painting with watercolour feels to me like dancing with the creative forces of the Universe as the paint finds its own path on the paper and the work flows from there.

Over the last ten years I have travelled a lot with my illustration work. As I need to pack a fully functional and highly mobile studio, watercolour has been the perfect medium to accompany me. A little bit goes a long way, making it lightweight and compact to travel with.

 

Emma Dibben

 

Mobile Studio Materials

 

  • I have a Small Suitcase – hand luggage sized. I like this size as it is almost an exact fit for the pads of A3 St Cuthberts Mill Bockingford traditional hot pressed watercolour paper I take with me. I have found that finding a good quality paper can be difficult when travelling so I take several pads to make sure I have enough to last my whole trip.
  • I always take a sketchbook with me, the one pictured here is an A5 Seawhite sketchbook.
  • A set of watercolours – my ‘desert island’ set pictured here, plus a small tube of black and a large tube of white. The tin from the Sennelier set has good space for mixing the paints. I also take some old squares of cut up sheets that I can use to clean the mixing area in the tin. I might also take an extra mixing palette.
  • A small Indian ink, I like Winsor & Newton Black Indian Ink in the 14 ml jars.
  • A few assorted pencils, pencil sharpener and eraser.
  • My brush wrap with a selection of brushes, my favourite brushes and a few different coloured pens and pencils for sketching, I use many different brands and often pick up extra colours whilst travelling.
  • For scanning and sending my work I also travel with an A4 flatbed scanner. I have always found Epson to be very reliable and produce good quality scans. It makes working away from my studio much easier if I take my own scanner as then all I need is a WiFi connection to send my work.
  • MacBook Air
  • LaCie Rugged hard drive in a sturdy case.

 

Watercolour is the perfect medium for painting outdoors as it is so easy to use wherever you are. There is no need for cleaning substances or any problem disposing of mixing jars. I paint outside at my allotment, which especially helps me if I am feeling stuck in my studio, and I can simply scoop a jar of water from the water trough and then water my plants with it when I’m done. I love the simplicity and the immediacy of this medium.

 

Emma Dibben

 

As an illustrator it is important to consider how the work will translate to the medium on which it appears – magazine print, newspaper print, packaging, billboard posters etc. What may be a small watercolour illustration could end up blown up much bigger for a billboard advertising campaign and printing in newspapers invariably mutes the colour due to the soft and porous nature of the paper. I find the vibrancy of the Sennelier paint translates and scans well, so for digital viewings little adjustment is needed. I work entirely by hand and then scan in pieces to either compile or tweak in Photoshop. Depending on where the illustration will be used in print I can then up the vibrancy to make sure it matches the original in print.

 

Emma Dibben

Peashoots by Emma Dibben for Kew, Summer 2021 magazine

 

The size I work in depends on the commission and how the work will be printed in the end. For magazine and book work where the illustration is reproduced at a small size, I tend to paint a few small things on one piece of paper. Usually I work at least two times larger than the print size and then I scan in at 300dpi resolution.

For commissions where the work needs to be scaled up, I work as large as possible and then scan in at a higher resolution. Sometimes it depends on the subject matter, for example a beetroot with long leaves, like this piece I was recently commissioned to do for Kew Magazine, will need plenty of space so I would work across the whole of an A3 page even though it will be printed much smaller. For illustrations that will be printed at a very small size I still work at a larger scale as it is easier to get all the detail in.

 

Emma Dibben

Beetroot by Emma Dibben for Kew, Summer 2021 magazine

 

Also, each illustration must be saved as a separate file because the designer I am working with will need to be able to move the illustrations around the page and flow the copy around them, so it is important to supply them individually.

I love to illustrate all manner of fruit and vegetables, and interesting pieces of packaging. I really enjoy illustrating recipes – the ingredients rather than the final dish. Below is an illustration from the Global Kitchen recipe book I recently had the privilege to work on, alongside Art Reach and Soft Touch Arts and launched as part of Refugee Week 2021. It is a recipe book that celebrates community and home cooking with the recipes and stories of seven talented chefs from Zimbabwe, Eritrea, India, Iran and Afghanistan. I loved working on this project and was given loads of creative freedom, whilst still receiving plenty of guidance and feedback from the brilliant designer I was working with, the balance of which I think always results in my best work.

 

Emma Dibben

Illustration of Qabli Palu by Emma Dibben from the Global Kitchen Recipe Book

 

For outlines, I use either black ink pen or watercolour depending on the effect I would like. A black ink outline works well for printing in newspapers as it gives a very clear outline. I often use coloured ink and pens too. And sometimes I simply build up the shading with watercolour and don’t use an outline at all.

 

Emma Dibben

 

The reproduction of the illustrations to print can be a challenge. To decide how much to tweak the vibrancy to ensure the final printed image matches the original I usually rely on intuition and experience. As the commissioner is receiving art work on screen and I don’t get to see a proof print to compare to the original there is this element of guesswork involved in projects with a high speed turn around. For longer projects such as recipe books it can be possible to post the art works so they can be colour matched by the design team.

 
 

Curating a Set of 12 Watercolour Paints for Sennelier

 

I was thrilled when Sennelier approached me to curate this set of watercolours specifically for illustration. My choices for this watercolour set have been largely based on the colours I use most often in my work. Many watercolour sets on the market are aimed at landscape painters and therefore the colours tend to be more traditional muted tones and earth colours. As a modern illustrator I tend to use a more vivid palette, hence the colours I have selected for my set. These are the colours that I like to travel with, which is when I have to pare my paints down to a minimum set.

 

 

Curating twelve colours from the ninety-six in the L’Aquarelle range was like choosing the paints I will take on a long trip away! I need a full range of colours to cover every eventuality of commission that may come in, and also to give me plenty of choice when sketching and painting in new and unexpected places. I have chosen colours that I love and that I find very vibrant and bring a radiance to the work. There is a lot of consideration and trialing of how each of the paints mixes together to create a wide spectrum of colours for the set. So, this is my desert island paint set! I also take a large tube of Titanium white and a small Ivory black.

I love the richness, smoothness and the luminosity of the Sennelier watercolour range. This is achieved in Senneliers traditional paint making methods that incorporate honey in their recipes. Honey is used as a preservative and also adds an incredible brilliance to the paint.

 

Emma Dibben

Work in progress by Emma Dibben

 

I use St Cuthberts Mill Bockingford traditional hot pressed watercolour paper. I love the smooth surface to work on, and that it holds the paint so well that I don’t need to stretch the paper. All the pulps used by St Cuthberts are sourced sustainably and it makes me happy to know the paper I use is made in England, just down the road in Wells.

My favourite brushes are made by Raphael in France. The Soft Aqua and Precision series are my preferred synthetic brushes, and the Kolinsky 8404, 8400, and 8408 brushes if choosing a natural haired brush. I find that all of these brushes hold the paint really well and have a fine and stable tip for doing detailed work.

 

Shop the L’Aquarelle Sennelier Emma Dibben Set of 12 Watercolour Paints

Shop all Watercolour at jacksonsart.com

 

emmadibben.com

 

@emmadibbenillustrates

The post Using Watercolours for Illustration appeared first on Jackson's Art Blog.


What Makes Maimeri Blu Watercolours Unique?

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The story of the Fratelli Maimeri company began in Italy in 1923. Painter Gianni Maimeri was unsatisfied with the oil colours available on the market and, with the help of his brother Carlo Maimeri, they produced a range of fine art oil paints that were based on oil and pigment, without any added fillers.
 

Gianni and Carlo Maimeri, 1899.
Copyright Fondazione Maimeri, All Rights Reserved.


 

Over the last century, the Maimeri range has expanded to offer other fine art materials, including MaimeriBlu watercolours. The MaimeriBlu range is formulated to professional standards, with a rigorous level of testing. Pigments are processed in refining machines, whose settings are fine-tuned to achieve the right pigment particle size, and each batch is tested for optimum lightfastness, viscosity, and stability over time.

As a watercolourist, I enjoy discovering the differences between artist watercolours, and I was excited to give Maimeri’s watercolours a go.
 

MaimeriBlu watercolour tubes.

 

For this article I tried a metal box set of 36 half pans and five individual 12ml tubes. When trying a watercolour range for the first time, I like to look at the pigments they contain, how well the paint rewets, and the qualities of the individual colours themselves.
 

Use of Single Pigments

I’m struck by the fact that all of the MaimeriBlu watercolours are made with a single pigment – something I’ve never seen in any other watercolour range.

Single pigment colours contain only one pigment, indicated by the pigment index number which identifies the chemical composition of the pigment (Ultramarine Blue, for example, has a pigment index number of PB29). While all watercolour ranges contain a selection of single pigment colours, most ranges also include colours that contain a blend of pigments. For example, a single pigment Cobalt Blue (considered to be ‘genuine’ Cobalt Blue) is PB28, while some paint makers will use a blend of pigments to match the colour of the genuine pigment. E.g. Cobalt Blue made with a mixture of PB29 (Ultramarine Blue), PB15 (Phthalo Blue), PW6 (Titanium White). There are many reasons why paint makers will use a mixture of pigments instead of just one. Some pigments are very expensive, and they might choose to use a mixture of less expensive pigments to keep the price down for the artist. Historical colours, like Indigo, were originally made using pigments that were fugitive (not lightfast), so modern versions of the colour are created with other pigments. Sometimes it’s the case that a pigment simply isn’t suitable for a particular medium, which is why you won’t find a genuine Prussian Blue (PB27) in acrylics.
 

Trying MaimeriBlu single pigment colours in my sketchbook.

 

Single pigments can play a particular role in colour mixing. As a general rule, the more pigments there are in a mixture, the muddier the colour will be. For this reason, some artists prefer to use single pigment colours in their palette because they are generally best for clean, glowing colour mixtures, and they allow you to experience the unadulterated properties of each pigment. It seems that the MaimeriBlu range is ideal for artists who value single pigments.
 

Swatching the Colours

I tend to prefer tubes of watercolour rather than pans, so I started by trying the 12ml tubes of Ultramarine Blue, Green Gold, Turquoise Green, Permanent Madder Deep, and Neutral Tint. The tube colours have a creamy consistency, without the stickiness of some watercolours (particularly those that contain honey). On the paper, the colours are rich and smooth. Two of my favourites are Ultramarine Blue (PB29) which is jewel-like and characteristically granulating, with a particularly reddish undertone, and Turquoise Green (PB16) – a deep greenish-blue when applied heavily and bright blue-green when diluted. It would make some very atmospheric greys if mixed with orange and used transparently.

 

Ultramarine Blue, PB29 (top) and Turquoise Green, PB16 (bottom).

 

The 36 half pans in the set are housed in a sturdy metal palette with two mixing surfaces. The pans are standard half-pan size, so they will fit any watercolour tin, though I like the design of the metal tin they came in, which feels robust and well-made. Removable dividers hold the pans in place, ensuring they don’t slip.

When I was unwrapping the pans, I found that some of the paper wrapping stuck to the surface of a few of the colours which I had to rub off with water. This was inconvenient and meant that I wasted a small amount of the paint. Once I started using the pans, I found that they rewet nicely and it was easy to get a good colour load on the brush.
 

Lifting Cadmium Yellow Lemon (PY35) from the pan.


 

It’s true for all watercolour ranges that it’s easier to get a strong colour load when using watercolour straight from the tube, because you can dilute it minimally with water and really saturate the brush. Below I compared Green Gold (PY129) from the tube (top) to Green Gold from the pan (bottom). While the masstone was deepest in the tubed colour, I think that the intensity of colour from the pan compared well. Green Gold is a great colour for mixing, particularly for landscape painting – it makes rich, earthy oranges when mixed with magenta.

 

Green Gold from the tube (top) and Green Gold from the pan (bottom).


 

One of my favourite colours in the range is Orange Lake (PO43), which is part of the 36 half pan set. It is a particularly vibrant and opaque red-orange that reveals a peachy undertone when diluted.

 


 

The great thing about painting with single pigment colours is that you can work with the individual properties of the pigments themselves, from the vibrant and non-granulating Orange Lake, to the gentle and highly granulating Potters Pink (PR233).
 

Orange Lake, PO43 (top) and Potters Pink, PR233 (bottom).


 

While single pigment colours are certainly not unusual, Maimeri’s commitment to only using single pigments sets them apart from other watercolour ranges. I would recommend them to artists who value single pigments, as well as those who want to explore colour mixing with watercolour and achieve the best results.
 

Shop MaimeriBlu Watercolours at jacksonsart.com
 

The post What Makes Maimeri Blu Watercolours Unique? appeared first on Jackson's Art Blog.

Two Painters Test Jackson’s Watercolour Brushes

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In September, we asked watercolour painters Andrew Pitt and Gary Cook to test a few brushes of their choice from the Jackson’s watercolour range. To get the full experience, both artists used the brushes to create a complete watercolour painting and here, they tell us about their findings.


 

Andrew Pitt

A few weeks ago Jackson’s asked me if I would be interested in reviewing some of their brushes. I had to say this was not something I would do normally as I believe it can be a bit misleading to suggest that a particular brush will enable a student to paint like their tutor. To their credit Jackson’s emphasised they wanted a genuine, honest response to their brushes. In the end, I need not have worried, the Jackson’s Raven brushes are some of the best synthetic haired brushes I have used. They have a nice chunky handle which I feel encourages bold brush work. They also take up and deliver the paint well.

 

Andrew Pitt

 

To ‘make friends’ with these new brushes – new to me, I have never used them before – I thought it best to attempt to paint a full watercolour rather than test them by painting isolated swatches of colour. They are nice to hold. Probably the main difference between by usual brushes is the softness of their hair. It is very soft, but seems to return to shape when wet. We all get used to the pressure required for a brush to deliver the paint to paper. The Raven brushes point well so are ideal for painting large areas which have some small shapes without the need to change brush mid-wash.

 

Andrew Pitt

 

I also tested three of the Jackson’s Riggers. I think Riggers are difficult to use well and I’m not sure I have found, let alone mastered, a good Rigger technique. I found the Studio Synthetic Watercolour Rigger Brush Sizes 0 and 2 suited me best. Frankly, the mark made by the Size 4 Rigger could be made by the Raven Mop, Size 0 or 2 as they pointed so well. It is more satisfying and professional to paint with the largest brush you can manage, that also makes the mark you have in mind.

 

Andrew Pitt

 

I would certainly recommend Raven brushes if you are starting to paint or have realised that your usual brushes are far too small. It is very common for painters new to watercolour to go for what I call, ‘the false security’ of a small brush.

 

Andrew Pitt

 

Watch Andrew’s video review of Jackson’s Raven and Rigger brushes as he paints with them for the first time:

 

 
 

About Andrew Pitt

Andrew Pitt started painting when he was 11, inspired by watching visiting artists paint the Thames barges in his home town of Maldon. He was educated at the Gilberd School, Colchester and at St. Andrew’s University.

He has had many solo exhibitions and been teaching and giving demonstrations for over 40 years. He is particularly well known for his simple, direct watercolour technique.

Andrew has contributed articles to The Leisure Painter magazine, Town House Films produced a DVD called, Watercolour: Pure and Simple with Andrew Pitt in 2008 and in 2019 he published his first book, Seasons and Reflections: Notes on Painting in Watercolour. There are videos, watercolour workshops and studio notes for fellow painters available on his website.

Andrew lives in Suffolk with his wife Rachel and her flock of chickens.

 

Andrew Pitt

 

andrewpitt.co.uk

 


 

Gary Cook

I’m sure I’m no different from most artists in that I have rows of carefully curated pots of brushes in my studio, which look nice, but end up gathering dust as I use the same favourite brush over and over again. We all excuse and explain to ourselves that you have to keep trying new ones just in case the latest purchase becomes the chosen one.

 

 

When working on smaller watercolours I normally paint en plein air and have found Daler Rowney Langton Cold Pressed Watercolour Board ideal for breezy outdoor painting. It provides enough texture and absorbency while being convenient to carry around. On this occasion and for ease, I tested some new Jackson’s brushes in the studio by painting a beautiful stand of beech trees I had recently seen in a Yorkshire ravine. After masking the edges of the board, I wet all of the paper with an Jackson’s Squirrel XL Sky Wash brush, which held plenty of water and immediately felt like it would be useful on larger pieces of work. I then added light washes of diluted black Indian ink together with Winsor and Newton Payne’s Gray and Yellow Ochre to create a backdrop of the lightest and most distant areas of the valley.

 

 

To paint in the verticals and branches of the beech trees I used the Dagger Brush 3/8 in. There it was. The new favourite. We all know that feeling when a brush becomes ‘The Brush’. The squirrel hair held just the right amount of paint and maintained a flexibility and flick that felt just right. My only regret with it is that it is a small and delicate brush, fine for working at this scale, but I know I’ll be tempted to use it on larger pieces and I will end up over-working areas with small brush strokes. Who knows, perhaps Jackson’s will produce a larger version in the future.

 

 

While the paper was still wet I tried the Red Sable Flat Series 917 1/4 in Brush to splatter ink and paint to create random splodges and paint flows. Nothing. The flicked hairs produced a fine mist rather than the drops of ink I was after. But come on, after the Dagger, any brush was going to come second. The Kolinsky Sable Liner Series 921 was struggling against the tough opposition too, but I could feel it would work better on larger watercolours.

 

 

Once the body of the trees were painted in I used both the Sky Wash and Series S.920 Kolinsky Sable size 8 brush to darken areas and increase the contrast between deep shadow and bright light breaking through the trees. When I was happy with the tonal values I treated myself to some clean water and gave the Red Sable Flat Series 917 1/4 in Brush another go to take out some of the paint in the highlight areas. This time the brush performed perfectly. The short stiff hairs were able to get the paint moving again and acted almost like an eraser to create the hazy light-burst effects I was after.

 

 

After hair drying the painting I then applied charcoal powder to darken and soften the shadow areas of the ravine. After fixing the charcoal layer I wrote into the background the names of the species that are dependent on beech trees which will all be affected as climate change puts strain on these beautiful but shallow rooted giants.

 

 

Watch a time-lapse video of Gary’s work in progress below:

 

 
 

About Gary Cook

Gary Cook RI SGFA is a Dorset-based environmental artist who explores our complicated relationship with and often detrimental impact on nature. The combination of naturalistic painting and narrative script that characterise his watercolours are a direct result of his background in the newspaper industry where he was the senior artist and associate editor for The Sunday Times for 26 years.

 

 

He is a recently-elected member of the Royal Institute of Painters in Water Colour (RI) and the Society of Graphic Fine Arts where he has twice won the Best in Show award. He also writes for Resurgence and The Ecologist. He is represented by The Art Stable in Blandford, John Davies Gallery in Moreton-in-Marsh, Kevis House Gallery in Petworth and Sea Pictures Gallery in Clare, Suffolk.

 

cookthepainter.com
@cookthepainter

 

Shop Jackson’s Watercolour brushes on jacksonart.com

 

Use or search the Instagram tag #jacksonsmaterials to see more.

 

The post Two Painters Test Jackson’s Watercolour Brushes appeared first on Jackson's Art Blog.

Review of ShinHan Professional Designers Gouache

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Gouache is a versatile, quick drying, water-medium paint, originally created to dry to an opaque finish and provide matte, flat, highly pigmented colour straight out the tube. It can be easily diluted to function like a watercolour paint but gouache has its own specific advantages: the ratio of pigment to binder is usually much higher than it is in watercolour, providing much stronger colour pay off for relatively little product used, and usually also contains chalk to increase its opaque finish. This opacity is similar to acrylic paint, however they dry down differently. Acrylic will leave a sheen depending how much water it is mixed with (the more water the less sheen), whereas gouache will always dry matte regardless of water quantity. Perhaps the only functional drawback of the medium is that when wetted the tone of the paint can appear different once it fully dries down. This can be easily combated since it’s quick drying time allows for layering, and the paint itself can be reactivated with water after drying.

Established in Korea in 1967 the ShinHan brand carries the slogan “Passionate Colour, Professional Touch” and after testing out the Professional Designers Gouache, I can confidently ensure that this product exemplifies their slogan. The colours I selected from their range to test – Carmine, Scarlet Red, Permanent Yellow Orange, Permanent Yellow, Permanent Green Light, Viridian, Turquoise Blue, Ultramarine Light, Violet, Burnt Sienna, Ivory Black and Permanent White – provided a flexible and vibrant palette although only a small sample of the 72 tube range. I tried a variety of application methods to test the full scope of the paints, which I’ll describe here in greater detail.

 

 

Pigmentation and Finish

To start, I swatched all of the selected colours with water (listed with their shade names on the left), and opaque from the tube (the column on the right). Overall this is a very warm palette, where both of the blues are even warm toned. This isn’t inherently a problem since all of these colours can be mixed to have cooler tones, but the fresh out the tube palette I chose may have benefitted from the addition of a couple of cooler options such as a Raw Umber or Prussian Blue for the sake of variety. All of the colours dried vibrantly and completely opaque with one coat, which is a testament to the quality of pigment ShinHan gouache contains.

 

 

Layering and Mixing

The inclusion of an Ivory Black and Permanent White in my palette allowed for tints and shades to be created with ease. On my second test sheet I experimented with these mixed with my two favourite colours in the batch; Violet and Ultramarine Light. Due to it’s quick dry time gouache can be easily layered to various effects, and here you can see I tested Violet with Ultramarine washed on top, Violet and Ultramarine mixed, and Ultramarine with Violet layered on top. Each strip has a different finish despite only using two tubes, showing how a variety of applications can make all the difference with this medium. I then tested a scale of tints using the Permanent White with both colours and a smaller scale of shades with the Ivory Black. These experiments all mixed beautifully with little effort to combine the pigment. Finally, for this sheet I decided to test a wash of the white and black over the already dried colour, which gave a more dynamic effect than the pre-mixed tints and shades.

An observation I made at this stage at this stage was how quickly my water became dirty. Due to the high pigmentation of a small amount of paint, every wash will dirty your water rapidly. If you’re looking to achieve very clean or light colours you’ll probably end up changing your water often. I would recommend working with two jars of water with this gouache to ease this issue – one being dirty for rinsing off colour, and a cleaner one for adding water to the paint.

 

 

Gouache with Mixed Media

Another benefit of gouache is that it can be used easily alongside other media, such as watercolour, acrylic, ink, pen, coloured pencil and graphite to name a few. I made a sample here of some of these combinations to show how they hold up on top of the ShinHan gouache. My favourite of the batch was the coloured pencils, since the chalky consistency of the gouache underneath gave it a finish similar to oil pastel.

 

Studies for Gouache Painting Techniques

Next I painted a couple of studies using the wider palette and a variety of brushstrokes and layering of colours. Gouache can sometimes be pigeon-holed as a designer’s medium, when in practice it has a much wider variety of function as we can see in these quick examples.

 

 

For the first study (on the left), I painted the hand in layers of light washes. This can have a subtle, luminous finish if the paper is allowed to shine through. I then blocked in the background colour and layered the red pattern on top. The pigmentation allowed me to decide how much blue I wanted to show through the red with one coat depending how much water I used. This control is satisfying to work with, and is evidence of the quality of pigment ShinHan gouache contains. Next I experimented with a wash of colour over the dried hand to make a shadow. Unlike using acrylic where a wash would not reactivate the paint below, I found that the gouache shifted immediately on contact with the water. With a light touch this movement is minimal, but if you wanted to fully preserve the work below I wouldn’t recommend this technique with gouache. Lastly I added some hatching to the hand using a thin brush, and enjoyed the effect of the drawn line against the wash below.

For the second study (on the right) I wanted to test blocking in the colour opaque. I tried to emphasise the brushstrokes to see how visible they’d be once dry, and they held up nicely. For the sheet underneath this hand, I allowed the colour to naturally bleed into a wash of water. I especially like how this turned out in the top left corner where it dispersed glowingly. Finally, on the top right of this painting I tested wiping away the paint once it dried down with a clean brush with water on it. This is how I created the lighter sphere above the fingers, and think this is a lovely technique for creating subtle highlights, although it would be difficult to wipe it past this tone without damaging the surface of the paper. Hopefully these simple studies convey a few techniques the ShinHan gouache can be used with.

 

 

Aside from the quality of the paint itself, the box sets of the ShinHan Professional Designers Gouache are clean and functional, although not as portable as pans of gouache. The inside of the lids are printed with the full list of shades available in the range (a massive 72), which is a helpful addition if you’re already familiar with artist’s colours to see which ones you could supplement this base collection with. If not, this list isn’t so helpful, and would maybe have benefitted from colour swatches printed in a leaflet. Without a box set, the individual tubes are easy to choose from on the Jackson’s shop as they’re photographed with a sample shade for ease of selection.

In terms of value per tube each contains 15 ml of paint which is on the relatively smaller side compared to the fluid volume in other available brands. However, this does make the paints small enough to throw in a pencil case, and the colour pay off is so rich, greater quantities aren’t absolutely necessary. Saying that, if you’re embarking on a large-scale project, this may not be the set for you when there are larger tubes available. With these colours you are essentially paying for the quality of pigment at a reasonable price, not quantity, and that choice depends on your personal priority.

 

 

This gouache will perform best on a watercolour or higher gsm paper. All of my test sheets are painted on the Jackson’s Watercolour Block 7 x 10 in cold pressed 300 gsm sheets, and at this weight of paper they curl very slightly under the paint. This could be helped by stretching the paper with gummed tape, but a much lower weight of paper would definitely distort, especially if using a lot of water. Additionally, in terms of clean up, gouache is exceptionally easy to rinse out of brushes with water alone.

Overall, the ShinHan Professional Designers Gouache range provides a flexible palette with excellent quality of pigmentation. Though the tube size is relatively smaller compared to other brands, very little product goes a long way. I’d recommend them to anyone looking for a good quality brand for a curious first attempt at the medium, and to anyone more familiar with it building their own core palette.

 
 

ShinHan Professional Designers Gouache Tubes are on sale now until Friday 22nd October.

 
 

The post Review of ShinHan Professional Designers Gouache appeared first on Jackson's Art Blog.

Is Watercolour Better in Pans or Tubes?

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Most brands of watercolour paint come in a choice of two formats: dried pans or moist tubes. Watercolour painters often ask how to choose which to use – what are the benefits of using watercolour in pans versus in tubes. To help you decide which will work better with how you paint, here are the advantages and disadvantages you can expect from each format.

watercolour pans

Watercolour pans are available in standard half pans and full pans as well as a few larger sizes.

 

Sizes – pans

Watercolour pans come in two rectangular sizes: a full pan and a half pan. (A full pan is sometimes called a whole pan.) Across brands the sizes of pans are nearly the same standard size but not quite, so that’s why many watercolour boxes have bendable compartments that allow for slight adjustments to hold the pans. Travel watercolour boxes that do not have adjustable compartments will not work with all brands of pans because even a part of a millimetre difference means that they won’t fit in the slot. In the Holbein half pan sets the plastic pans come with a magnet on the bottom of each pan to hold it in place in the box.

watercolour pans

These 5 brands of full pans are each a slightly different height, length or width. You can also see from the left: filled from a tube, two poured and two extruded.

 

watercolour pans

Most metal boxes for pans have bendable holders to accommodate slightly different sizes of full or half pans.

 

Barry Herniman cloverleaf paintbox

Although the popular Cloverleaf paintbox has deep wells designed for squeezing in your tube paint, some full and half pans will also fit. It’s a good example to show that all standard pans are not the same size, because some brands do not fit as well in this box.

 

A few brands do other sizes than the two common ones: Blockx do a Giant Pan (a generous 3.5 by 2.5 inches), Gansai Tambi are much larger than standard and Coliro do two sizes of round pans. Daler-Rowney does a delightful miniature set of 1/4 pans. To refill it you purchase extruded half pans and gently cut them in half with a craft knife.

watercolour pans

The unusual sizes of pans shown here are clockwise from top left: Blockx giant, Gansai Tambi, two sizes of Coliro round pans, with a set of the Gansai Tambi across the bottom.

 

Pans also vary in their formula and method of manufacture. Some pans are extruded like dough, cut into cubes, let dry, and then placed into pans as a hard cake. These can often be seen sticking up above the rim of the pan. Those that are poured also vary. Some are poured once and allowed to shrink so the pan is only partially full, while other brands top up the pour a second or third time for a fuller pan. And of course the actual formula of the paint differs, with some paints adding some honey, some having different amounts of gum arabic binder, some adding wetting/flow agents and some not. Some with honey are not as soft because they are extruded, while the poured honey paints can be only semi-hard. These differences in formula are more readily visible in a pan than a tube, as a shiny/matt, sticky/smooth, or soft/hard surface.


watercolour tubes

Watercolour tubes from 37 ml to 5 ml.

 

Sizes – tubes

Most brands of watercolour make two sizes of tubes, their small and their large. The most common sizes are 5 ml, 10 ml, 14 ml, 15 ml, or 21 ml. In addition to their two regular sizes, Winsor & Newton also do a very large 37 ml tube. Some of the brands that only do one size of tube often do it in an unusual size such as 7 ml, 9 ml, 11 ml and 24 ml.

Occasionally you may find a favourite paint and not have a choice of format. There are some brands that are only available in one format – some that only come in tubes and some that only come in pans.


watercolour pans sets

 

Comparing the Benefits of Pans Versus Tubes

*Note: One of the main reasons people buy tubes is as bulk refills for their pans. If you do this and let the paint dry, then you have changed your moist tubes into hard pans and the characteristics on this list that apply to pans will also apply to your home-filled pans as they are no longer moist tube paints.

Convenience – Portability and speed of set-up – pans are better at this.

Pans are more convenient and so are the usual choice for portable paint boxes. Opening and squeezing out all the tubes each time you paint is not as convenient. You can also get more colours in a smaller space with half pans than with tubes, which means a lighter, smaller box. Some tube colours do not completely dry on the palette so if you are travelling and you have used tubes, your palette can remain sticky or even wet so all the colours may mix or spill, especially in hot weather.

travel boxes

Watercolour travel boxes are usually made for pans because they are more compact and lightweight.

 

Convenience – Faster Wetting – tubes are better at this.

Tubes are moist paint so they are already soft. Because pans are dried hard, they usually take longer for the paint to soften with water. You can alleviate this somewhat by spraying water over your palette five minutes before you begin painting to let them soak up some water to soften them up. You can also use an eye dropper or small plastic bottle that lets you squeeze a few drops on to pre-wet them. Also, some brands of pans are softer than others. Be aware that although some painters love the more moist pans, some find the semi-hard nature a problem both because they can be ‘sticky’ and it can mean that if the box is left on its side, then the paint very slowly responds to gravity and can sag into the next colour.

watercolour tubes

Tube paint is ready to go and it is easy to get a lot right onto the paper.

 

watercolour pans

If you spray your pans a few minutes before you start painting they will soften up and will be easier to wet.

 

Customise your palettes or your pans – with tubes you can do this.

If you want something other than half or full pans you can squeeze paint into a wide variety of ceramic palettes, or special travel boxes. If you want a special mix you can fill an empty pan from two tubes and stir it with a toothpick or pin. If you like your pans only half filled so that there is room for water and a brush without overflowing, you can fill them only half way.

ceramic palettes and watercolour tubes

If you do not need a travel box, ceramic palettes are lovely to paint with in the studio. Squeeze tube paint into a well, mix between wells, make up smooth dilute washes, and if some paint is left over you can re-wet it the next day.

 

To fill a pan from a tube: squeeze paint around the inside bottom edge of the pan and then into the centre, tap the pan on the table to settle the first layer, repeat for a second layer, then stir in a circle around the pan with a pin for a minute to get rid of gaps and bubbles and evenly distribute the paint. Let the pan dry for one to two days. It will shrink by up to 50%, which is how some poured pans come anyway. Extruded pans can come partially or very full.

watercolour pan

When putting tube paint into a pan it’s good to stir it thoroughly with a pin to get it to fill to all four corners and spread out smoothly.

 

watercolour tubes and pans

Two pans were filled from a tube to the same level. One was let dry for two days to show the shrinkage that occurs.

 

Large Paintings, Large Areas of paint, and Large Brushes – tubes are better at this.

Anything A3 or larger can be considered a large watercolour painting. With tubes you can mix up a large amount of colour on a palette quickly, dip into it with a large brush and paint large areas quickly. If you squeeze more paint into your palette wells than you ended up using, you haven’t necessarily wasted it, you can rewet it in the future, just like a pan. Half pans are so tiny that it is hard to get paint out with anything but a smaller brush.

watercolour tubes

When using a large brush to cover a large area you will not be able to use a standard whole or half pan as the brush is too big. So tube colour in a palette with large wells works better for this.

 

Wear and Tear on Brushes – tubes are slightly kinder to brushes.

Using pans generally causes slightly more wear of watercolour brushes because you have to scrub a bit in the pan to pick the colour up. A well-known watercolourist prefers pans and says she accepts that she will go through a lot more brushes. If you like pans and know that you go through a lot of brushes you may wish to choose more economical brushes. Again, though, you can minimise this by wetting your colours and letting them soften before you start with your brush. I have found that some brands of tube colour dried on a palette can be quite hard to re-activate and in that situation, the dried tube colour will be the one that is harder on your brush.

Saving money – tubes are more economical.

Tubes are more economical than pans, and you can also think of a tube as a bulk refill for a pan. You can buy the extra large 24 ml or 37 ml tubes for even bigger savings. Because the tube paint contains water that will evaporate from the wet paint it will shrink in the pan and you will have to top it up a second time if you want to completely fill the pan. But I like a half filled pan, it gives room for water and the brush to swirl. But not everyone wants to squeeze tubes into pans as you are losing the main benefit of the tube, that it is already wet and ready to go. So some painters don’t think of a tube as a pan refill, but as a moist form of watercolour and they use it from the tube on a palette.

But even though they cost less per volume of paint, somehow tubes don’t seem to last as long. Many painters have told me that their pan paints have lasted for years but they go through a tube really quickly. I have also experienced this and it can be quite surprising. It is easy to use a lot of paint from a tube but a bit harder to use a lot from a pan. And pans are more concentrated because some of the volume in a tube is water.

My rough estimation is that a 15 ml tube of Horadam will make about eight to 10 half pans if you are using the tube as a refill. But the pans are not quite as full as those filled by Horadam because they top up their pans after the first shrinkage. See the ‘Customise’ paragraph above for a good way to fill your pans.

There is also a bit more wastage in several ways with tube paint than pan paint (see below). And in an effort to avoid wastage sometimes you can be stingy with the amount of paint you squeeze onto the palette, which may hold back your painting as you scrimp.

Another thing to consider when squeezing tube paint into a pan is that the formula for the paint in the pan and and the paint in the tube is different for some brands – for example Winsor & Newton extrude the paint like clay for the pans and place it into the pan as a dried cube. (I was lucky enough to visit their factory in London before they moved their production, and got to see the process – it was fascinating.) They say that these two different formulas mean that their pans are easier to re-wet than the paint from their tubes after it has dried on the palette, because they’ve added wetting agents to help get the dried paint in the pan to activate. For other brands the paint is the same for both – for example Schmincke fill their pans with the same paint as their tubes and it takes three cycles of filling and drying for a pan to become full. So, for some brands the dried tube paint is not supposed to revive as well as the ready-made pan paint does, though some people have done tests and found that any difference is not really noticeable.

Old Holland say that their paint in tubes and pans is the same, even though they extrude the paint for their pans, just that the pan paint has been left to dry and so the artist must re-hydrate the paint.

*Note: Fixed cost per unit
Small tubes (5 ml – 11 ml) are much more expensive per volume than large tubes (14 ml – 24 ml) and half pans are much more expensive per volume than full pans. In some paints the price for the small tube is almost the same as the large tube. This was explained to me as being caused by a fixed per unit cost- each item has to be handled multiple times (mixed, filled, labelled, packaged, inventoried, stored, shipped, marketed, etc.) and all those costs are the same per item whether it’s 5 ml or 15 ml.

Wastage – pans have a bit less wastage of paint.

There will probably be some wastage in the lid and the threads of a tube, though you can wet it and scrub your brush over it to use it up a bit.

watercolour tubes

The lid threads of tubes can get a bit mucky, but you can try to use the paint in the cap and on the neck by wiping them with a wet brush.

 

You may squeeze out more paint onto your palette than you will use, either intentionally or because tubes are often filled very full and when you unscrew the cap for the first time the paint acts like it is under pressure and a little or a lot can shoot out. You can help prevent this by holding your tube upright and tapping the folded end lightly against the table top to encourage the paint to go to the bottom and any air bubbles to go to the top. If you take off the lid and more paint squeezes out than you want, you can encourage it back inside by slightly squeezing the sizes while holding it upright and it will usually retreat enough to get the lid back on. If you can’t get it back inside, remember that the dried paint on your palette isn’t necessarily wasted if you can rewet it in the future. You can also just squeeze that excess into an empty pan to use later.

watercolour tubes

If too much colour comes out you can often squeeze the sides of the tube to get it to retreat so you can get the lid back on.

 

Another small wastage is that it can be hard to get all of the paint out of a tube without cutting the tube open, whereas you can reach all of the paint in a pan. If a partially full tube of paint dries up and you can’t get any out, you can quite easily slice open the side of the soft metal tube and peel it open. Then just use it like it were a dried pan.

watercolour tube

You can easily cut open the soft metal tube and use a dried tube as a pan..

 

Paint separation – only tubes do this.

Sometimes when you open a new tube you can squeeze out far more than you needed just trying to get to the pigment because at first all that comes out is the gum arabic binder. This separation of pigment and binder can’t happen with a dried pan. Fortunately, if you are using the tube as a refill for a pan you can just continue squeezing it into the pan and stir with a pin as described above. If you are using it as moist paint then you can stop squeezing and try stirring inside the tube with a pin to mix the binder back in. In the factory they rotate the tubes every few weeks during storage so that may help in the studio, too.

watercolour tubes

Here it took filling four wells of this ceramic palette before I got to the proper consistency of paint because sometimes the binder and pigment will separate and binder will come out first.

 

Colour Strength and Brightness – the two formats are the same.

Some painters believe that tube colours have more pigment. Others say that pans are more concentrated. As mentioned previously, for many brands it’s the exact same paint, the tube just already has water added and with pans you have to add the water. So after you have added some water to the pan paint to rehydrate it they should be quite similar. I think the feeling that the colour is stronger with a tube is simply that it mixes so easily without much water that you are actually picking up more paint on the brush. So if you want your pan colour to be as strong as your tube colour, you need to dampen it in advance, and scrub up a good amount of paint into a wet mixture that isn’t mostly water, so you also get a good amount of paint on the brush. Then you will find that both formats are very similar in strength.

watercolour pans

If you spray your pans a few minutes before you start painting they will soften up and will be easier to wet.

 

On the other hand, many fans of pans don’t want strong colour, they don’t want to get too much paint on the brush, because they like to layer more transparent, diluted paint, not apply a brushful of saturated colour. So they don’t activate the paint as much and they use more water on their brush so the colour is more diluted. These painters feel that a pan is more easily controlled, especially if you measure the water that you add by drops, so you are consistent with your dilution.

Cleaning contaminated colours – pans may be a bit better at this.

Dampen the surface of a pan and you can wipe just the top layer off and the paint underneath will be clean again. Tube paint on a palette can be quite muddy by the time you are finished painting and it can be hard to salvage the little bits left on the palette.

watercolour pans

A mucky pan can be quickly cleaned.

 

watercolour pans

Dampen the pan and give it a wipe to clean off other colours.

 

Do you have a preference of format?

Well, those are all the positive and negative attributes I could think of. If you can add other reasons that you prefer a pan or a tube, please let me know in the comments below.


Other watercolour formats

 

Other Formats

To add to your choices there are a few more formats, though they are not available in as many brands. In addition to tubes and pans, watercolour comes in liquid, stick, and pencil form. Liquid watercolours can be a creamy fluid or very fluid like ink, but are all concentrated colour and are made with a gum arabic binder so can be re-wetted and lifted from your paper. The sticks are similar in consistency to pans, they are extruded paint left to dry. You can draw with them on wet paper or you can wet parts of your drawing afterwards. Viarco make a stick shaped like a tailors chalk. Use the pencils to draw with and then run a wet brush over to make parts of the drawing flow.

watercolour pencils

Watercolour pencils can be used on wet paper, on dry paper and then a wet brush can be brushed over it entirely or over selected parts.

 

In the end, many watercolour painters use a combination of tubes and pans, perhaps with a few sticks or pencils for fine lines. Those who prefer pans might have French Ultramarine or Cerulean Blue in a large tube for quick, large sky washes. But there are some painters who are loyal to painting with just one format. Knowing the benefits of each will help you decide which you want to use.

Watercolour variety

A watercolour painter might use a variety of formats. Even if they prefer pans for most things they might use tubes to mix up large washes or watercolour pencils for linear marks.

 


We have a wide selection of watercolours at Jackson’s


Read some of our other articles about watercolour painting

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New Schmincke Super Granulation Watercolours: Haze

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Schmincke have a new addition to their range of nature inspired Super Granulation watercolours. Alongside the Galaxy, Glacier, Deep Sea and Forest and Tundra colours, is the new set Haze (or Nebel in German). Schmincke’s popular Super Granulation watercolours contain a combination of naturally granulating pigments which separate and settle into the paper surface for textural effects. Here, watercolour painter Anna Zadorozhnaya has shared her thoughts on the new range.

 


 

Words by Anna Zadorozhnaya

Last year the German brand Schmincke launched a range of super-granulation watercolour paints in the professional Horadam range. The distinctive feature of this range is that the paints are based on pigments that have a natural tendency to granulate. By combining two or more pigments in one paint, they complement and enhance the colour in combinations and create an incredible texture on the surface of the paper.

The current range of super-granulation paints includes five series with nature-themed names: Forest, Deep Sea, Tundra, Glacier and Galaxy. Read more about each of the ranges and their colours here and here

This line has been such a resounding success that the range of the colours is expanded. Exclusive to Jackson’s Art in November, a new series of super-granulation paints called Haze goes on sale in a set with 5 x 5 ml tubes (not in single tubes 15 ml). Like the previous series, it also includes five colours: they are pink, blue, indigo, brown and black. All paints have excellent lightfastness and all are transparent or semi-transparent.

Continuing the tradition of the name of the range, which reflects motifs in this range of colours, the Haze range is about complex, composed, discreet, stylish shades of grey-brown: these are the colours best used for painting misty mountains, obscure clouds, dimly visible, hidden behind a haze.

 

 

Haze Pink

PR233 / PB36.

This cold pink is similar in shade and colour range to a similar colour from another super-granulation series, Tundra Pink. As with that colour, the main pigment used here is PR233, which is better known among artists as Potters Pink. The accompanying and complementing pigment PB36 is blue with a distinctive greenish hue. Therefore, Haze Pink is very cold and in its colouring layer splits into pink and blue-green particles: the pure paint itself is a work of art.

 

 

Haze Blue

PY43 / PB29 / PBr7

The blue in this range is a muted shade that could be described as the colour of a pre-thunderstorm sky. It is less split up with several pigments than the previous pink colour, but the extra texture that is created by the flecks of orange-brown pigment creates interest. In addition, the orange helps to bring out the beauty of the blue in Haze Blue.

 

 

Haze Indigo

PB29 / PG26 / PBr33

Like all the other colours in this series, Haze Indigo is subtle, understated and very stylish. The overall tone of the paint tends towards blue-purple, and even though the green pigment PG26 is present in the composition, it is not visually noticeable in the paint layer, it is more for the creating a cool colour temperature.

 

 

Haze Brown

PBr7 / PBk11

The brown in Haze series is quite different from the other colours of the other ranges (Forest, Glacier and Galaxy has browns). It is calmer, more natural and cooler than its predecessors. This colour in its purest form can be compared to a tree bark or dark earth. Its black pigment gives it incredible patterns and can be used to create very interesting textures in wood, soil or stone.

 

 

Haze Black

PG36 / PBr33 / PBk11

The fourth black colour in the Schmincke super-granulation range, and the most neutral of the lot: in the other ranges, black tends to be either warm or cold, but here it is exactly neutral. And, of course, like all paints, it is stunningly beautifully granulating, layering into black with merely visible flecks of green and brown-purple.

To sum up: The Haze set is available exclusively at Jackson’s Art till Christmas. All of these colours are incredibly beautiful both in mixes and in pure form, they create additional texture, help to easily create very effective washes and make the final painting even more interesting for the viewer.

 

Shop Schmincke Super Granulation Haze watercolours

 

About Anna Zadorozhnaya

Anna Zadorozhnaya is a Russian watercolour artist, currently based in Hannover, Germany. Anna has an MA in Art from Oxford Brookes University, is a da Vinci and Schmincke ambassador and works as tutor both offline and online. The main subject of her paintings are snowy mountains in pure watercolour technique. She shares her watercolour paintings on her popular Instagram page @draw_better.

 

 
 

More articles by Anna Zadorozhnaya

 

More articles about watercolour painting:

 

The post New Schmincke Super Granulation Watercolours: Haze appeared first on Jackson's Art Blog.

A First Look at Roman Szmal’s New Colours within the Aquarius Watercolour range

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Roman Szmal’s Aquarius Watercolour range already has a wide collection of 165 colours, most of which are single pigment, which ensures clean mixing and allows artists to really customise the colours on their palette. Roman Szmal have recently announced that they are expanding the range further to include 15 new colours in full pans, including 3 colours containing Earth Pigments, and 3 sets.

 


 

Something to note when initially looking at the new colours, there are quite a few pigments that are not commonly found in other watercolour ranges. The first in this list, Quinophthalone Yellow, I have only seen listed by one other paint manufacturer. Out of the 15 new colours, at least 12 are single pigments.

 

Quinophthalone Yellow (PY138)

 

There are also three pigments which appear to be unique to Roman Szmal – Iron Chrome Brown (PBr27), Chrome Orange Hue (PO82) and Ginger Red (PR290)

 

 

Each colour is made with high-quality gum arabic and glycerin, linden honey, distilled water and pure pigments. Every pan is hand filled and labelled with watercolour paper.

 


 

 

Swatch of the 15 new Roman Szmal Aquarius Watercolours

Quinophthalone Yellow (PY138)

Lightfastness Rating (according to the Blue Wool Scale): 7
Non-Staining/Staining: Staining
Granulation: No
Transparency: Semi-transparent

Quinophthalone Yellow is a very bright, clean intense yellow, which when diluted gives a delicate lemon tone.  It is not found in many watercolour ranges and does somewhat resemble Hansa Yellow Light in hue.

 

Quinacridone Gold Hue (PR102/PY150)

Lightfastness Rating (according to the Blue Wool Scale): 8
Non-Staining/Staining: Staining
Granulation: Medium granulation
Transparency: Transparent

Perfect for warm green shades, the transparency of Quinacridone Gold Hue also lends itself to glazing. A deep, rich almost brownish/orange yellow in masstone which when diluted produces a warm, yellow gold colour.

 

Chrome Orange Hue (PO82)

Lightfastness Rating (according to the Blue Wool Scale): 7/8
Non-Staining/Staining: Non-staining
Granulation: Medium granulation
Transparency: Semi-transparent

Another colour which is not often featured in watercolour ranges, Chrome Orange Hue is an alternative to the original toxic chromium orange.

 

Blue Ridge Raw Sienna (PY43, Earth Pigment)

Lightfastness Rating (according to the Blue Wool Scale): 8
Non-Staining/Staining: Non-staining
Granulation: Medium granulation
Transparency: Semi-transparent

A natural yellow iron oxide, which has been obtained from deposits in the Blue Ridge Mountains of the USA. Leaning towards an orange/yellow brown in masstone with warm undertones, when diluted Blue Ridge Raw Sienna exhibits a lovely warm gold colour.

 

Blue Ridge Burnt Sienna (PBr7, Earth Pigment)

Lightfastness Rating (according to the Blue Wool Scale): 8
Non-Staining/Staining: Non-staining
Granulation: Medium granulation
Transparency: Semi-opaque

A natural brown iron oxide, which has been obtained from deposits in the Blue Ridge Mountains of the USA. Blue Ridge Burnt Sienna is a rich, deep brown that does have a hint of red within it, making it much warmer in tone.

 

Dark Ochre (PY43, Earth Pigment)

Lightfastness Rating (according to the Blue Wool Scale): 8
Non-Staining/Staining: Non-staining
Granulation: Granulating
Transparency: Semi-transparent

Dark Ochre is much deeper in tone than regular Yellow/Golden Ochre and leans toward brown.

 

Ginger Red  (PR290)

Lightfastness Rating (according to the Blue Wool Scale): 7/8
Non-Staining/Staining: Non-staining
Granulation: Medium granulation
Transparency: Semi-opaque

A warm, granular orange/brown with a distinct red shade, mixing Ginger Red with green it makes a lovely green grey.

 

Quinacridone Scarlet  (PR N/A)

Lightfastness Rating (according to the Blue Wool Scale): 8
Non-Staining/Staining: Non-staining
Granulation: Medium granulation
Transparency: Semi-transparent

Quinacridone Scarlet is a bright, clean red which is slightly warmer in tone than Perylene Red.

 

Perylene Red  (PR178)

Lightfastness Rating (according to the Blue Wool Scale): 8
Non-Staining/Staining: Staining
Granulation: Medium granulation
Transparency: Semi-transparent

Perylene Red is a versatile, intense, deep red which when mixed with yellows and golds creates autumnal oranges, and when mixed with Phthalo Green, a wonderful neutral grey.

 

Quinacridone Purple  (PV55)

Lightfastness Rating (according to the Blue Wool Scale): 8
Non-Staining/Staining: Non-staining
Granulation: Medium granulation
Transparency: Semi-transparent

Quinacridone Purple is a lovely, rich, purple which has a slight reddish tone, again is not seen in many watercolour ranges.

 

Ultramarine Intense  (PB29)

Lightfastness Rating (according to the Blue Wool Scale): 8
Non-Staining/Staining: Medium staining
Granulation: Medium granulation
Transparency: Semi-transparent

Unlike French Ultramarine, Ultramarine Intense is not as granulating, which allows for some really nice blending to be achieved.

 

Cobalt Green Deep  (PG26)

Lightfastness Rating (according to the Blue Wool Scale): 8
Non-Staining/Staining: Non-staining
Granulation: Granulating
Transparency: Semi-opaque

Cobalt Green Deep is a dark, granulating, subdued almost grey green which is ideal for creating earthy tones. Mixed with reds, it can create some interesting greys and is great for foliage and landscapes.

 

Iron Chrome Brown  (PBr29)

Lightfastness Rating (according to the Blue Wool Scale): 8
Non-Staining/Staining: Non-staining
Granulation: Granulating
Transparency: Semi-opaque

Similar in tone to Manganese Brown, Iron Chrome Brown is a brownish to bluish/black shade. It is also one of the shades which appears to be unique to Roman Szmal.

 

Manganese Brown  (PY164)

Lightfastness Rating (according to the Blue Wool Scale): 8
Non-Staining/Staining: Non-staining
Granulation: Granulating
Transparency: Semi-opaque

A great colour for rendering shadows, branches and landscapes generally, Manganese Brown is ideal for when black may be too intense.

 

Shadow Grey  (PB29/PBr7/PV19)

Lightfastness Rating (according to the Blue Wool Scale): 8
Non-Staining/Staining: Non-staining
Granulation: Medium Granulation
Transparency: Semi-opaque

Shadow Grey is a neutral grey which leans towards blue-violet. This is the only new colour which contains a combination of three pigments (Ultramarine Blue, Iron Oxide and Quinacridone rose) and is a grey that doesn’t contain black – ideal for stormy skies and shadows. It is also a great alternative to having black in your palette.

 


 

Colour Mixing

 

 

The top two mixes feature Perylene Red, one with Phthalo Green (Lukas 1862 Watercolours) and the other with the new Quinacridone Gold Hue. The Perylene Red mixed with Phthalo Green creates a lovely grey that is slightly on the warmer side.  Perylene Red and Quinacridone Gold Hue create a deep, autumnal orange at full strength.

 

Next is Cobalt Green Deep mixed with Permanent Alizarin Crimson and then Ginger Red – the first mix creates a lovely warm reddish, muted purple. Ginger Red is one of the pigments unique to Roman Szmal, when mixed with Cobalt Green Deep creates an earthy grey green that would be useful for dark foliage or shadows.

 

Ultramarine Intense mixed with Permanent Alizarin Crimson as expected gives a wonderful blue violet, however what is great about the Ultramarine Intense is that it is less granulating than a traditional French Ultramarine so you can get a nice block of solid colour. A classic mix, Ultramarine Intense and Blue Ridge Burnt Sienna gives scope to a wide range of greys, both warm and cool depending on the ratio.

 

Lastly and probably my favourite of the mixes I tried out was Quinophthalone Yellow and Phthalo Green. I guessed this would create a bright, vibrant, intense green and it certainly didn’t disappoint. A true what I would call apple/lime luminous green.

 

Mixing Quinophthalone Yellow (PY138) and Phthalo Green

 


 

Alongside the 15 new colours, three sets have been released in collaboration with artists Mona Omrani, Jane Blundell and Izabela Wolska-Kusmider.

 

Top set: Roman Szmal + Mona Omrani Palette Set of 28 Full Pans, Middle set: Roman Szmal + Jane Blundell Set of 24 Full Pans, Bottom set: Roman Szmal + Izabela Wolska-Kusmider Botanical Set of 12 Full Pans

 

Roman Szmal + Mona Omrani Palette Set of 28 Full Pans

Chosen by watercolourist Mona Omrani, this set of 28 Full Pans features some colours that were introduced in 2020 such as Misty Morning and one of the newest shades, Blue Ridge Burnt Sienna. The colours within this set include:

Titanium White, Benzymidazole Yellow, Nickel Azo Yellow, Permanent Yellow, Yellow Ochre, Cyprus Raw Umber, Aquarius Grey, Scarlet Red, Permanent Alizarin Crimson, Cherry Quinacridone Red, Quinacridone Magenta, Dioxazine Violet,  Shadow Violet, Misty Morning, Lavenda, Cobalt Blue, Ultramarine Intense, Phthalo Blue GS, Indigo (Hue), Payne’s Grey, Aquarius Green, Permanent Green Light, Hooker’s Green, Phthalo Green BS, Blue Ridge Burnt Sienna, Sepia, Neutral Tint and Aquarius Black.

Roman Szmal + Jane Blundell Set of 24 Full Pans

Selected by artist and teacher Jane Blundell, this set of 24 full pans is a balanced palette which will allow you to paint a range of subjects. Included within the set is a convenient orange (Aquarius Orange) and a purple (Mineral Violet). It also contains a great range of realistic greens, which will be great for foliage and landscapes. The colours within this set include:

Buff Titanium, Hansa Yellow Medium, Quinacridone Gold (PO48 + PY150 version), Aquarius Orange, Pyrrol Scarlet, Pyrrol Rubine, Quinacridone Red, Mineral Violet, Ultramarine Intense, Cobalt Cerulean Blue, Phthalo Blue (Green Shade), Cobalt Turquoise, Phthalo Green (Blue Shade), Perylene Green, Aquarius Green, Sap Green Light, Gold Ochre, Goethite, Mummy Transparent Red, Blue Ridge Burnt Sienna, Indian red, Cyprus Burnt Umber, Cyprus Raw Umber Deep and Shadow Grey.

 

 

Roman Szmal + Izabela Wolska-Kusmider Botanical Set of 12 Full Pans

Izabela Wolska-Kusmider is a botanical artist and has chosen this configuration of 12 colours:

Aquarius Yellow, Permanent Yellow, Quinacridone Gold, Benzimidazole Orange, Permanent Red, Permanent Alizarin Crimson, Quinacridone Magenta, Quinacridone Pink, Dioxazine Violet, French Ultramarine, Phthalo Blue Red Shade and Cobalt Cerulean Blue.

 

 

In terms of botanical painting and what colours you would need to get started, this set provides a good base – most botanical artists and palettes will contain a range of pinks/reds and a few yellows and blues to enable you to make a range of greens. While I am definitely not a botanical watercolourist I thought it would be good to try out the colours and see what I could come up with. I didn’t struggle to create any of the tones in the purple Iris that I painted and the 3 blues within the set enable you to create both warm and cool tones.

 


 

Roman Szmal Aquarius Watercolours on jacksonsart.com:

Roman Szmal Aquarius watercolours are available individually here, the majority of the new colours can be found at the top of the colour chart.

The three new sets, along with the existing sets can be found here

 

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Schmincke Super Granulation Watercolours – Desert, Volcano and Shire

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Words by Anna Zadorozhnaya

The German brand Schmincke, which produces paints and mediums, has introduced three new nature inspired sets to their Super-Granulation watercolour range: Volcano, Desert and Shire.

You can read about each of the existing sets here:

Glacier, Galaxy and Deep Sea

Tundra and Forest

Haze

 

The distinctive feature of the entire line of Schmincke Horadam super-granulating paints, including the new series, is the principle of pigment selection. Only pigments that have a natural tendency to granulate are used and specially selected for these paints. Some of the paints can beautifully fall apart into two pigments that complement each other, such as Tundra Violet or Desert Green. All paints in the series are highly lightfast (4**** and 5*****) and are predominantly semi-opaque/semi-transparent.

 

 

In January 2022, the line has been expanded once again, with 15 more colours available for those who love granulation and unusual effects in watercolour. These colours, included in a series called Volcano, Desert and Shire, finally cover all possible needs of the watercolour painter in all colour groups and categories of super-granulating paints. Three very beautiful and different yellow colours have been added to the new series, incredible gray-brown shades have appeared, there is a gorgeous red and distinctive orange, and the range of green shades has been hugely expanded.

Let’s take a closer look at the new colours…

 

Volcano

The Volcano series consists of the brightest colours of all the series. When you look at the reds, yellows and oranges you cannot help but think of the triumph of the dangerous and beautiful element: lava flowing and volcanoes erupting.

 

 

Volcano Yellow

PY159 – Rich, bright, sunny yellow: the colour shade is neutral, but tends towards the warm part of the spectrum – of the usual colours, in temperature and colour it can be compared to cadmium yellow. Due to its initially light colour, the granulation is not as visible on the paper as it is in the darker colours, but it is also evident.

Volcano Orange

PY159, PR108 – This is a beautiful orange with a slightly reddish hue, making it perfect for painting brick walls – or another objects, where the complex and unusual orange could be needed.

 

Volcano Red

PR108 – A rich, bright, and very interesting warm red. This is the only pure red in all the series of super-granulating paints, it does not spread out into several pigments, but shows natural granulation on the basis of a single shade – it should be noted, very beautiful in its pure form. By the way, only the Volcano series (the aforementioned yellow and this red) use paints based on a single pigment – all other paints in the series contain at least two pigments.

Volcano Violet

PV62, PR108 – The violet of the Volcano series is more of a cool pink: the shade is closest to the very popular Galaxy Rose colour, but it’s more reddish and the paint itself is layered with two pigments: pink and purple granules are clearly visible in the paint layer.

Volcano Brown

PR108, PBk11 – This brown is the fourth among all the super-granulating paints series and is different from the others: in the Forest series the brown is greenish, in Glacier it is orangeish, in Galaxy it goes to a reddish undertone, and in Volcano it is neutral with pronounced pinkish-purple flockules. The shade itself looks very interesting, demonstrating a “chip” of all the series – a harmonious combination of two pigments of different colours.

Desert

What does one imagine when thinks of the desert? Of course, yellow-sand and brown shades tinged with the green of the oasis. And that is exactly the colours you see in the Desert series.

 

 

Desert Yellow

PY159 PBr7 – Desert Yellow can be described as “mustardy”: it is a cool colour with a distinct greenish undertone. And it is a perfect colour to paint sunlight: it is very transparent and really glows on paper.

Desert Orange

PY159 PBr33 – A faint, dusty orange, that has a brown undertone. This colour is more reddish than his colleague – Tundra Orange.

Desert Brown

PY150 PR108 PBk11 – This brown is the perfect colour for representing sand: it spreads out into a yellowish brown with particles of black, and that is the basic colour of the desert.

Desert Green

PR108 PG26 – An insanely noble colour, pure magic: it’s a cool green with a cool red pigment in the same paint, and the combination looks incredibly winning together. It is a very intense, dense and the only opaque colour in the series. And Desert Green is not only a very, very beautiful colour on its own, but it also creates a magical effect in mixes.

Desert Grey

PY159 PBk11 – A warm gray, with pellets of yellow and black pigments visible in the layer. A very versatile dark colour for representing natural objects, because unlike the gray in the Forest series, where the brown pigment is prominent, here the colour mixture is more neutral on its own.

Shire

A summertime meadow, a variety of green tones, deliciously good air and clear water: the Shire series is ideal for an idyllic landscape.

 

 

Shire Yellow

PY159 PV62 – A very cool yellow, more of a greenish colour. Perfect for painting sunlit foliage, grass clippings, or the sun behind the trees, it’s translucent and has a very unusual and unique hue.

Shire Olive

PY159 PB35 – A light, neutral green that really shows that “blue plus yellow gives green”: the layer of paint shows yellow and blue particles, but when you look at the colour, it is unambiguously green with no warm or cold preference in spectrum.

Shire Green

PY159 PG18 – A bright and transparent green that is quite cool. The paint splits into two pigments, yellow and green, with yellow being more visible than green. When you look at the colour, you get the full impression of leaf veins due to the super-granulation!

Shire Blue

PY159, PB29, PG26 – All of the super-granulating series have blue colours except Volcano and Desert – and Shire is most similar to the Forest series colour of the same name: it’s a very cool blue-green that you could almost call “malachite.” Blue dominates visually, but you can also see particles of yellow and green.

Shire Grey

PY159, PB74, PBk11 – A very beautiful gray colour with visible bluish particles. Its colour temperature tends to be more of a “cool” colour. Like its predecessor in the Desert series, this grey is versatile, allowing you to paint both shadows and darker parts of landscapes, while the granulation will help create additional interest in the washes.

To briefly summarise: given the newly introduced Schmincke Horadam super-granulating watercolour series, the line includes 40 colours divided into thematic series with nature names. The new series significantly expanded the range of shades, adding beautiful and very interesting colours that create a beautiful texture on the paper that draws the viewer’s eye.

In addition to the new series introduced and the new colours, another premiere is announced in January. It concerns the form-factor: from now on the super-granulating series is available not only in tubes (separately and in sets) but also in half-pans!

Thus, lovers of watercolour have more choice and convenience – 8 series, 40 colours, large 15 ml tubes and small 5 ml tubes in sets, or half-pans. And this gives even more possibilities to create true masterpieces!

 

About Anna Zadorozhnaya

Anna Zadorozhnaya is a Russian watercolour artist, currently based in Hannover, Germany. Anna has an MA in Art from Oxford Brookes University, is a da Vinci and Schmincke ambassador and works as tutor both offline and online. The main subject of her paintings are snowy mountains in pure watercolour technique. She shares her watercolour paintings on her popular Instagram page @draw_better.

 

 

More articles by Anna Zadorozhnaya

 

More articles about watercolour painting:

 

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A Guide to Watercolour Painting – What You Need To Get Started

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In this film, Lisa Takahashi covers everything you need to know about watercolour painting, including pigments, paper, palettes, and much more. Watch the film and find a list of contents with timestamps below to navigate your way through the various topics and commonly asked questions that Lisa discusses.


 

 

 

Contents:

Part One – Watercolour Paint

0:15 What is Watercolour Paint?

0:55 Are Watercolour Paints Vegan?

2:23 Can You Make Your Own Watercolour Paint?

2:50 What Are the Unique Characteristics of Watercolour Paint?

5:01 What is the History of Watercolour Painting?

 

Part Two – Studio and Watercolour Paper

6:37 What do You Need to Get Started in Watercolour?

9:36 What Palette do You Recommend?

12:47 What Else do You Need to Get Started?

13:27 What’s the Difference Between Artist and Student Grade Watercolour Paints?

16:44 Drawing and Recommended Graphite Pencils for Watercolour Painters

19:13 Sponges and Masking Fluid

23:16 Other Pieces of Watercolour Painting Kit You Can Invest in

26:53 What Makes Watercolour Paper Unique?

28:48 What’s the Difference Between a Watercolour Spiral Pad, Glued Pad, and Block?

31:46 What’s the Difference Between Hot Pressed, Cold Pressed, and Rough Watercolour Paper?

37:19 What’s the Benefit of Heavier Weight Watercolour Paper?

38:59 What Easel Would You Recommend for Watercolour Painting?

 

Part Three – Watercolour Brushes

42:21 What Brushes do You Need?

50:47 What Brush Case do You Recommend?

 

Summary

51:21 What’s the Bare Minimum Amount of Kit You’d Recommend for Watercolour Painting?


 

Further Reading on the Jackson’s Art Blog

Everything You Need To Know About Watercolour Paper

Making Handmade Watercolours With Jackson’s Artist Pigments

Is Watercolour Better in Pans or Tubes?

Your Comprehensive Guide to Watercolour Mediums

Granulation in Watercolours: What Is It and How to Use It?

 

The post A Guide to Watercolour Painting – What You Need To Get Started appeared first on Jackson's Art Blog.

Introducing the New A. Gallo Handmade Watercolours

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The New A. Gallo Handmade Watercolours: Naturale 24 set explores their range of hand-crafted earth, mineral, and plant-based paints, created from traditional recipes. Here, Lois Davidson reviews the new range, taking a closer look at her favourite colours.


 

 

Inspired by a deep passion for historical pigments and traditional painting techniques, A. Gallo handmade watercolours aim to connect their users to the origins and history of artistic materials. Handmade in Assisi (the birthplace of Giotto), colours such as genuine Lapis Lazuli Extra Fine, Jarosite and Indigo Genuine evoke images of ancient frescoes and Renaissance paintings. The entire A. Gallo watercolour collection is made from earth, mineral, and plant-based pigments and are crafted according to traditional recipes from the raw pigments, gum Arabic, local honey, rosemary essential oil, and a wetting agent. All are mercury, lead, arsenic, cobalt and cadmium free, thus demonstrating a contemporary approach to historical colour.

 

 

Exquisitely packaged in an elegant gift box, wrapped in artisan Florentine marbled paper and individually hand-swatched wrappers, A. Gallo’s Naturale 24 handmade watercolour set are a joy to open. The packaging is clearly that of a high-end, luxury brand, making the Naturale 24 set perfect for gifting, either for a fellow artist or as a special treat for yourself. The metal tin contains two mixing surfaces and a thumb ring, making it ideal for watercolour painting en plein air or in the studio. The Naturale 24 set also comes with a complimentary synthetic Tintoretto mop brush, size 0. The pans wet up quickly and have a wonderful buttery texture, and as you would expect, are smooth to swatch and richly pigmented. The range of colours in the set is unique and interesting, with plenty of subtle earthy hues and deep rich darks, with some wonderful pops of colour such as Copper Blue and Green Gold, making it perfect for most genres of watercolour painting, and in my opinion, particularly suited to landscape painting.

 

 


 




Trying out a few colours from the New A. Gallo Watercolours: Naturale 24 set

After swatching out all 24 pans, I selected a few of my favourites to try further. This was difficult with so many beautiful colours to choose from, but I eventually decided on the following: Indigo Genuine, Morellone, Copper Blue, Castile Orange, and Potter’s Pink. I experimented with them by painting a couple of spontaneous semi abstract landscapes to see what the colours look like together, and to test how they interact with each other on the paper wet in wet, and wet on dry.

 

 


Potter’s Pink (PR233, with excellent lightfastness and semi-opaque)

A soft, dusky pink, subtly granulating, this colour pairs perfectly with the Indigo Genuine to create a wonderful limited palette. It creates delicate washes of pale, coolish pink when mixed with plenty of water, but in my opinion its true beauty is revealed with less water, yielding a cool natural pink with a slightly blueish hue that works well when combined with earth colours and warm darks. Another colour that will happily become a part of my regular watercolour palette.

 

 



Indigo, Genuine (PB 1 with good lightfastness, and semi-transparent)

Cotman’s indigo substitute is one of my favourite colours, so I was eager to try the genuine pigment despite its reputation as a non-lightfast colour. A. Gallo’s Indigo Genuine has a ‘good’ rather than ‘excellent’ lightfastness rating, but it more than makes up for that with its intense midnight blue hue that thins out with plenty of water to the prettiest transparent blue-grey. It’s a great mixing colour with the Morellone, making an intense dark blackish aubergine, and then with a touch of Castile orange added, a good greenish neutral brown. A super colour for any artist who is curious about this traditional, genuine plant-based pigment. A. Gallo helpfully suggest substituting their Payne’s grey if excellent lightfastness is required.

 

 

Copper Blue (PW4, PG7, PB15:3, PY3 with excellent lightfastness and semi-transparent)

An exquisite greenish-blue hue created by A. Gallo as a non-hazardous alternative to the corrosive and toxic colour made from metallic copper, this jewel-like colour would be perfect for adding colour accents to a finished painting. It contains a touch of zinc white (PW4) and works to create subtle highlights on darker colours as well as creating stunning greenish blue washes when mixed with varying amounts of water. Pale but intense, and incredibly delicate and pretty.

 

 



Castile Orange (PR101, PY43 with excellent lightfastness and semi-transparent)

A beautiful reddish orange Bauxite ochre from Spain, I was drawn to this colour as its hue sits nicely somewhere between burnt sienna and the more vibrant traditional oranges like cadmium orange: rich and intense but wonderfully earthy. Another good pigment for creating subtle pops of colour, it works well as a mixing colour to warm up or neutralise other colours and mixes, especially greens; which is a real plus for landscape painting.

 

 



Morellone (PR101 with excellent lightfastness and semi-opaque)

A powerful opaque iron oxide pigment that packs a real punch at full strength, the smallest amount of paint delivers the richest dark aubergine I’ve come across so far in a watercolour paint. I love deep dark red/blue hues that favour the red side of the colour wheel; it works very well with most of the colours in the Naturale 24 set, and counter-changes especially well with the earthy yellows and vibrant blues because of its reddish hue. 
I think this is my favourite colour from the set, one that I will most certainly be adding to my regular palette as it is such a pleasing and versatile colour.

 


 

In conclusion, it was a real pleasure to try out the A. Gallo Naturale 24 handmade watercolour set. My expectations were high, as I’d heard many good things about this high-end artisan brand: and I certainly wasn’t disappointed. The colour selection is varied, versatile, and very different from most large watercolour sets. The half-pans wet up quickly and richly, and the tin provides plenty of space to mix; and, with the thumb ring, a convenient set up for both en plein air and studio painting. The complimentary Tintoretto synthetic mop brush is a good all-rounder with its fine point and excellent water/paint holding properties. Lastly, I thought the printed DIY swatch card on Arches watercolour paper was a wonderful and thoughtful touch that saves a lot of work and allows the artist to see how well the paints behave on quality watercolour paper with a minimum of fuss.

 

The A Gallo Naturale Watercolour sets are available here.

 


 

Further Reading on the Jackson’s Art Blog

Meet the Devon Watercolour Challenge Painters

Is Watercolour Better In Pans Or Tubes?

Pigment Colour Index: Violet Pigments

What Is The Pigment Colour Index?

A Guide To Watercolour Painting

 

See more A. Gallo Handmade Watercolours here

Shop watercolour on jacksonsart.com

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Making a Paint Mulling Slab

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Make a paint mulling slab in about 30 minutes – to use for making your own artist oils or watercolour paints. Plus an introduction to making your own oil paints.

You only need a few things if you want to make oil paint or watercolour paint yourself. The two basic ingredients are dry pigment and a binder. For oil paint the binder is a drying oil, such as linseed oil, and for watercolour paint it is gum arabic. The tools you need are just a glass muller, a glass mulling slab, a palette knife, and an airtight jar or empty paint tube to store your finished paint in. Of these, the hardest thing to find is the glass mulling slab. So I thought I’d see if you could easily transform our glass palette into a mulling slab.

 
mulling oil paint
 

A mulling slab is a sheet of glass that has a frosted surface and a muller is a glass hand tool with the same ground-glass surface. By rubbing pigment and binder between these finely pitted surfaces you get the binder to encapsulate every particle of pigment, so that the pigment is completely suspended in oil for oil paint or gum arabic for watercolour.

 

 

I wanted to see if you could frost our glass palette with some glass etching cream or some carborundum grit powder, to make your own paint-making slab simply, in your studio. In Part 1, I show you how to make a paint mulling slab in about 30 minutes. In Part 2, I give some basic introductory information on making your own oil paints. If you are interested in making your own watercolour paints we have this article: Making Handmade Watercolours with Jackson’s Artist Pigments.

 

paint making

Either Glass Etching Cream or Carborumdum Powder will frost glass to make a paint mulling slab.


 

Part 1 – Making a Paint Mulling Slab

Paint Mullers

Mullers are heavy glass tools that fit in the hand, with a flat, ground-glass surface for swirling over your slab. They come with long handles or short handles and you choose the handle based on the grip you prefer – side grip or top grip. You may find one style easier to use depending on whether you are sitting or standing. I find the short handle easier to use when standing.

 

mulling oil paint with a muller

Here I am using a short handled muller with a 10cm diameter base. It works well for mulling while standing, because the grip is on top. It is made of clear glass – it looks blue because it is reflecting the colour of the ultramarine oil paint I’m making.


 

Jackson’s Glass Palette and Inking Slab

The Jackson’s Glass Palette has rounded corners and edges so there is no risk of cutting yourself when handling it. It is made of toughened glass so it is hard to break. It is great used as a slab to roll ink out on for printmaking and it’s a smooth, easy-to-clean surface for use as an oil painting palette. Because it is clear you can even put a coloured sheet of paper behind it to match your toned canvas so you can judge your colour mixing better.

 
mulling watercolour paint
 

Transforming the Glass Palette into a Mulling Slab

Choose the method to frost the glass – is using etching cream or grinding with carborundum better?
I wanted to change the glass palette to be like a sandblasted glass slab with a fine ground-glass texture matching the face of the mullers. I tested if glass etching cream or grinding with carborundum grit would be better. In the end I found that the glass etching cream was good and didn’t take very long, but the depth of the frosting was slightly less, a little uneven and you need very good ventilation because the fumes are dangerous to your eyes. The grinding with the carborundum powder gave a more evenly textured surface that was slightly more frosted, closer to the texture of the muller, but it took longer and you may want to wear earplugs. The carborundum is less expensive than the etching cream, though the etching cream can be reused for other projects. I tried making paint on both frosted surfaces as well as on the un-frosted glass palette and found both the etching cream and the fine carborundum surfaces worked well, though the carborundum surface more closely matched the surface of the muller. Using the muller on the smooth, un-frosted glass slab took so much longer to make the paint that it was frustrating. So I recommend choosing one of the methods to frost the glass. (If you are interested in the details of the testing, they are at the end of the article.)

 

 

How to Etch a Glass Palette with Etching Cream

This is faster and quieter than grinding with the grit, but the fumes are dangerous for your eyes, so it’s best to do it outdoors.

1. Warm and shake the jar
The Armour Etch Glass Etching Cream doesn’t work well if it is below 18C/65F, so it helps to warm it up a bit. I put the closed jar of cream in a bowl of very hot water from the tap. You don’t want to melt the plastic jar and you only need to get it warm, not hot. I left it for 15 minutes while I cleaned the glass and prepared the area outdoors for applying the cream. Shake the jar well.
The cream contains crystals, that when warmed and shaken, were supposed to melt but there were still chunks of crystals. (This didn’t cause a problem when painting it on but did when I tested using a squeegee and the chunks dragged streaks through it.)

2. Set up your working area outside
To protect your eyes from the fumes, do this project outside. Set up an area with some newspaper. I used a 1-inch wide synthetic watercolour brush and the brush didn’t seem affected by the cream. You will need a timer and gloves (and eye protection if you have it).

3. Clean the glass
The glass must be very clean. Any oil, fingerprints or window cleaner will repel the cream. So I cleaned it with window cleaner and then washed it in water and dried with a lint-free cloth. You can also clean it with alcohol or acetone.

3. Set a timer and apply the cream
Go to your prepared outdoor area and put on gloves before you open the jar. Shake the jar well. Since you will just be using a circle in the centre to make your paint, you only need to frost a large circle in the glass, not the whole slab. Set your timer for 10 minutes when you start and brush on the first thin, even layer very quickly, in under two minutes. Then slather over that a thick layer – at least 2 cm or until you don’t see any dark shadows through the cream. It should take almost half the 10-ounce jar. The cream works by fuming it, so it needs a thick blanket of cream left on. They recommend to continue brushing and moving the cream around on the surface for the whole 10 minutes, I did this but don’t know if it made any difference. Since this is a paint making tool, it doesn’t need to look perfectly even anyway.

4. Remove the cream
After 10 minutes, scoop it back into the jar to use for another project or to give to a friend, it is still full strength and can be reused many times. Then wash your palette off in the sink. It is evidently safe to go down the drains, like drain cleaner.

 

etching glass

This shows me testing an area of the palette by etching with the glass etching cream. But you will probably want to etch a large circle in the centre of your palette.


 

How to Grind a Glass Palette

 
carborundum grinding glass
 

 
etching glass
 

Silicon carbide, also known as carborundum, is a hard chemical compound containing silicon and carbon and is mostly used as an abrasive. It is also used in some forms of printmaking, see more about that at the end of the article. An inexpensive 500g pot of Jackson’s Carborundum Powder in Fine grit will be more than enough to frost the Jackson’s Glass Palette. You can create a large circle of frosted glass in the centre in about 30 minutes. Be warned: this is a loud and monotonous activity. You will disturb others if they are around. You may wish to wear earplugs. Working on a large area of newspaper will let you clear up a lot faster and contain the ground glass bits that will be made. If you dampen the paper it will also keep your glass slab from sliding around as you work on it. Put a spoonful of grit on the palette and add enough water to make a very wet slurry. Place the muller on top and begin rotating it in a big circle, and small circles and in a figure eight. I did not press hard. Add water as needed to keep it very wet and gliding easily and add more grit as it breaks down or runs off. I also scooped some back on, that had piled up off the edge. Depending on how hard you are pressing, how fast you are swirling and how much water there is, it may take about 15 to 30 minutes of grinding. The time goes by slowly so check a clock, 5 minutes can feel like 15. You cannot see if the grinding is causing any change to your slab because when the ground glass is wet it is clear. You can only see the frosted effect when it is dry. So you will need to wipe an area clear of grit and then dry it with a paper towel to see if it is sufficiently frosted. Since you will be using a circle in the centre of the slab to make your paint, you only need to frost a large circle in the glass, not the whole slab. Note: This process does not damage the muller. Note: I wore gloves because the process will produce powdered, ground glass and I wanted to be sure I didn’t collect any on my hands or under my nails.

 

making a glass mulling slab

Grinding the glass with a very wet slurry of fine carborundum.


 

 

carborundum grinding

Adding more water to keep the slurry wet.


 

 

paint mulling plate

Adding more grit as needed.


 

 

grinding glass

After just a couple of minutes.

ground glass

This took me about an hour to grind. But I ground the whole rectangular surface and did it in 6 equal sections each with a different grit or a series of grits in each section, to find the best result. You can see that the upper right section was more coarsely ground, which turned out to not match the surface of the mullers as well as the fine grit on the upper left.

Cleaning up: I couldn’t find anything warning against putting the grit down the drain. But since it is like very heavy sand I didn’t want it to fill up the U-bend or something, so I got most of it off into the bin before I washed the slab in the sink. A microfibre cloth easily picked up all the particles from the table, but a paper towel couldn’t do it. Since the grit will contain lots of tiny particles of ground glass, be sure to get it all cleared up and you may wish to bin the cloth afterwards. Working on a disposable surface like newspaper or a drop cloth will help contain it all.

Whichever way you choose to frost the glass, your new grinding slab can now be used to make oil paint or watercolour paint. If you are interested in making your own watercolour paints we have this article: Making Handmade Watercolours with Jackson’s Artist Pigments. Below is an introduction to making oil paint.


 
mulling your own oil paint
 

Part 2 – Making Handmade Oil Paint

Why Make Your Own Paint

One reason you might want to make your own paints is to ensure that you know what is in your tube of paint. Unlike food or cosmetics, artist materials do not require a list of ingredients and the list that is voluntarily put on some materials is often only a highlight of the main ingredients, not listing the rest. Some artists also enjoy the satisfaction of making paint from scratch and then making a painting with their own paint. Also, when you make it yourself you can customise the colours and textures. If you find an inexpensive source of pigment, you might even be able to save money making it yourself. Some artists even gather their own pigments from nature to make paints.

 
Making handmade oil paint
 

How to Make Oil Paint by Hand – an Introduction

To make oil paint by hand you rub a hand-held glass muller over a drying oil and dry pigment on an etched glass slab to encapsulate every particle of pigment with oil. With the mulling process you are not milling the pigment, which is grinding the pigment into a finer powder. It already comes as a fine powder of the appropriate particle size. With mulling you are combining the oil and powder until every particle of pigment is fully coated. Most of the time and expense of making any oil paint lies in the meticulous care taken in coating each particle of pigment with the drying oil.

You can make paint with just a palette knife, but it takes a long time to get the paint smooth and to coat all the pigment with oil, and you usually have to use the paint the same day or it will separate. If you want to make a batch of paint and store it in tubes, then mulling is essential. It combines the pigment and oil better so there is less chance of them separating in the tube. You can use a muller on a smooth glass slab, but it takes much longer than mulling on an frosted glass slab, which is much faster at making the paint smooth.

The drying oil binder is usually linseed or walnut oil or in the case of whites and pale blues, safflower or poppy oil. (There is a link at the end to read more about drying oils.) The oil holds the pigments together as a paint film, so it is important to have enough oil to form a strong film. But oil is a slow-drying binder because it hardens by oxidation (absorbing oxygen from the air) and not by evaporation. Having too much oil will mean that the paint can take years to become even touch-dry. You also want paint that is thick enough to pick up on a paintbrush and an excess of oil will make it runny. Also, having as much pigment as the oil will hold, means that the paint will yellow less as it ages, because the oil is the part that yellows, and a good pigment load can cover over that yellowing.

Every pigment is a different chemical and absorbs a different amount of oil. The amount can vary widely. Each pigment is ground to a size that shows it at its best, so they are all ground to slightly different particle sizes. And some are ground to a selection of different sizes to change the transparency or shade and get a few different colours from one pigment.

When making oil paint, there is an optimal ratio of pigment to binder for each pigment. Some art materials books give charts of the oil absorption of different pigments, but because each pigment can be ground differently and be from a different source, these charts give wide ranges that means they are not very useful. If you want a chart, it is best to make your own chart using the specific pigment you are using. Doing it by weight is most accurate so if you are measuring, then you will need a scale. Weigh your palette and then add 100g of pigment, then add your oil very slowly, working it with a palette knife until it forms a stiff but workable paste. The weight of oil you use for 100g of each of your specific pigments, will be the general oil absorption level, which can be used as a starting point each time when making your own paints. Then you can make slight adjustments by adding a drop more of oil or a bit more pigment if needed.

But you don’t really need a chart because you will be making it by feel anyway, the right ratio is when you get a stiff but workable paste. Begin with a small pile of pigment on the slab. Make a well in the centre to pour in a few drops of oil. Stir and scrape with a palette knife until it is a stiff but workable paste, adding more drops of oil or more pigment until you reach the right texture. Then place the muller on top and begin mulling. The mixture will become more runny, so it’s good to start with a pretty stiff mixture. Scrape the sides of the muller regularly to incorporate that back into the mixture. It can take a few minutes per spoonful of paint. Then you scoop up the paint and scrape it into your empty tube. (There is a link at the end to our tube filling article). It helps to lay a damp rag, paper towel, or tea towel flat underneath the slab, like chefs put under their chopping boards, to prevent the slab moving on the table while you are mulling. If the muller suctions to the slab, you may need to pry it up with the palette knife.

 

how to make oil paint

Pouring linseed oil into ultramarine blue pigment on the mulling slab.


 

 

making oil paint by hand

Working the oil and pigment together with a palette knife. (Notice in the background the row of empty oil paint tubes for filling later.)


 

 

make oil paint

Continue working the mixture with your palette knife until is is a stiff paste. You are ready to mull the paint now.


 

 

making handmade oil paint

You don’t need a lot of pressure, just rotate the muller over the paint pile until it moves easily and become smooth.


 

 

how to grind oil paint yourself

Regularly lift the muller and scrape the unmulled paint that has collected around the edge and put it in the center of the paint, and work it in.


 

 

make your own oil paint

After a few minutes, if you scrape the paint up it should now look very different, smooth and buttery.


 

To store your paint you will need to put it in a container with no air gap in it, like an empty paint tube. To see this done, see our earlier article Filling Your Own Oil Paint Tubes.

When made commercially, oil paint is put through a triple roll mill repeatedly, to keep rubbing the oil and pigment together, to get the pigment particles coated with the oil. When making oil paint by hand it can take a bit longer to make a much smaller batch of paint because you are rubbing the oil into the pigment on a glass slab and the most you can do is a spoonful at a time.

There is a lot more to learn about oil paint making, this was just an introduction. There are lots of artists online sharing their tips in posts and videos so you can learn more as you go. Some pigments need a tiny bit of an additive like one drop of warm wax to keep them from changing texture in the tube. Instead of a drying oil you can use alkyd and make alkyd oil paints.

Paint Making Safety

When making oil paint, you want the opposite of ventilation, you want still air. There are no fumes to worry about removing and you don’t want the dry pigment powder to get into the air for you to breathe. Even for the more harmless pigments like the earth colours, you should always wear a dust mask because when you are working with anything dusty the pigment particles are so fine you can’t really see them in the air, but you will be breathing them in. Wearing protective gloves like our nitrile gloves is a good safety precaution, to prevent any of the more toxic pigments from absorbing into your skin and to prevent pigment getting under your nails. Avoid eating and drinking around dry pigment. Since you are working with a fine, dusty particulate, make sure there is no food or drink in the room that the fine powder could settle on. Consider wearing eye protection. Keep out of reach of children and pets.

Carborundum Use in Printmaking

Printmaking is the main reason we sell carborundum powder at Jackson’s. Carborundum powder is used as an abrasive in stone lithography and as a texture to hold ink in carborundum printmaking. Carborundum grit is used in stone lithography to prepare a clean, grease sensitive surface. Its uniform particle size allows it to be used to “grain” a stone which removes the previous image. In a similar process to sanding, coarser grit carborundum is applied to the stone and gradually finer and finer grit is applied until the stone is clean. For carborundum printmaking – a collagraph printmaking technique – carborundum grit is painted in a paste on the surface of a plate to create a raised gritty area to capture ink, while the ink can be wiped from the smooth areas of the plate. After putting through a rolling-bed press you get a print of painted marks embossed into the paper.


Further Reading


Materials



Testing Methods

If you are interested in a bit more of what I did to figure out the results I shared above.

 

grinding a mulling slab

The top was frosted with coarse carborundum and the bottom with glass etching cream.


 

My Testing the Etching or Grinding of the Glass
I wanted to change the glass palette to be like a sandblasted glass slab with a fine ground-glass texture matching the face of the mullers. I tested if glass etching cream or grinding with carborundum grit would be better. Etching cream is used to frost glass for decoration. Because the glass used for the palette is toughened, I didn’t know if the etching cream would work, because it doesn’t work on borosilicate glass (Pyrex glass). I also didn’t know if the toughening tensions on the surface of the glass would be broken by the grinding of the grit, and cause it to break. I tested both the etching cream and the grit on a small area and found they both worked, so followed up with tests of how much time of etching and what coarseness of grit were best. I then made some oil paint on each test area to see which allowed the paint to form up the quickest. And I also tested using a muller on a smooth sheet of glass to see if that would do the job just as well. The sound, feel and look of the ground glass of the muller was most closely matched to the grinding with the fine carborundum, but the etching paste was almost as close, so either will work fine.


Testing Etching the Glass Mulling Slab with Etching Cream
No noticeable damage to the brush or squeegee.
The instructions warn that a large area will be uneven. I think this is because the first deposit of cream leaves more of an imprint, so the initial application needs to be applied evenly and quickly. The best way to get an even etch is to start with a thin, evenly brushed on layer. I tried pouring it on an brushing that pour outwards, but the initial pour left a much more obvious etch. Not a real problem probably, because this is not a decorative item that has to be even.

The cream contains crystals, that when warmed and shaken, were supposed to melt but there were still chunks of crystals. This didn’t cause a problem when painting it on but did when I tested using a squeegee and the chunks dragged streaks through it, that left a very streaky etch.

 

armour etch glass etching cream

I thought I could get a fast, even application of the etching cream with a squeegee but the lumpy crystals made this impossible.


 

 

I tried pouring the cream out and them brushing that outwards, but the original pour line was far more etched than anywhere else.


 

Testing Grinding the Glass With Carborundum
Carborundum comes in fine, medium and coarse grits. I tested part with coarse, part with medium and part with fine. I also tried a sequence of grinding first with coarse, then with medium, then with fine and an area with the a sequence in the reverse order, since my aim was to roughen, not polish. I also tried grinding over an cream etched surface, to see if that speeded up the ‘frosting’ of the surface. (It didn’t seem worth the extra effort.) It turns out that grinding with the fine grit was the best way to make a surface that matched the muller and was good for making oil paint.

 

carborundum glass grinding

This has six section of different grit some in a sequence.


 

 

My chart for the sections, underneath the glass.


 

 

 

 

Fine, medium and coarse carborundum in 500g tubs.


 

 
mulling
 

 
mulling
 

 
mulling
 

 
mulling
 


Testing Making Oil Paint on the Different Surfaces

 

making handmade oil paint

I tested making the paint on all the different surfaces.


 

 

 

 
mulling oil paint
 

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Art Terms Explained: Watercolour Painting

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As artists, we encounter a vast amount of terminology while researching, reading and talking about our materials. In this installment of the ‘Art Terms Explained’ series, we explain the meaning of certain commonly-used words, phrases and terms in the context of watercolour painting.


 

Bead / Beading Up

Watercolours have a tendency to gather in pools and possess a resistance to the surface on metal or plastic surfaces. This can prove frustrating when trying to mix with them on a palette. The watercolour beads less and less the more you use a palette. Many watercolourists make it a habit to treat a new plastic or metal palette by giving it a gentle scuffing all over with a Brillo pad, to prevent beading up. Alternatively, you can choose to use a porcelain palette on which watercolour paints do not bead.

 

Brush Soap

Brush soap is a type of cleanser that is especially formulated with natural oils to moisturise and cleanse brush hairs, so that your brushes keep their shape and hairs for longer.

 

Buckle / Buckling

Buckling (or cockling) occurs when moisture soaks into the fibres within paper, causing them to swell and the paper to contort and misshapen. You can avoid this by using watercolour paper blocks, which are glued on all four sides, keeping the sheets taut as you paint on them, or by manually stretching your paper prior to use.

 

watercolour paper buckling

 

Cold Pressed Paper

Paper made by pressing the sheet through cold metal rollers. It has the traditional, irregular, softly dimpled surface that is associated with watercolour and is the most popular watercolour paper surface to work on because it is well adapted to many painting approaches. It tends to be more absorbent than hot pressed paper which is more compressed. In the UK this paper is called Not, as in ‘not hot pressed’.

 

Colour Strength

Colour strength – also known as ‘saturation’ – essentially refers to the ratio of pigment to binder (two ingredients found in watercolour paints). It is a description of how vibrant/brilliant/clean the colour appears.

 

Dry Brush Technique

When watercolour paint that is undiluted and therefore relatively dry or ‘gummy’, is applied with a dry brush to paper. The effect is chalky in appearance, and saturated in colour, and often makes for a dramatic contrast against more delicate, watery, watercolour washes. A very effective and dramatic method for creating textured surfaces within watercolour painting.

 

Flat Wash

The use of a single diluted colour to cover the white of the paper in a relatively unsaturated and uniform manner. See ‘washes’ for more details.

 

Flow

The word flow refers to how mobile the paint is, and how easily it transfers from the brush to the paper or surface. Mediums can be added to alter flow.

 

Fugitive Colour

Refers to non-lightfast paints (see permanence), such as Opera Rose or Rose Madder. They fade, or change colour, when exposed to sunlight. Generally it is advised to stick to colours that have been rated of excellent or very good lightfastness (they may also have the classification of being ‘I’ or ‘II’) if you are intending on exhibiting or displaying work on a wall, as opposed to keeping it in a book or portfolio. Remember, even very lightfast paints are rated as “lightfast when kept out of direct sunlight.”

 

Glaze

A glaze is when a dilute colour is applied across the surface of a watercolour painting that has been left to dry completely – the result of doing this is to tint the whole area with the colour of your wash. See ‘washes’ for more details.

 

Gum Arabic

A water-soluble gum that is extracted from two species of the acacia tree, which is used as a binder in the manufacture of watercolour paint. It can also be added to the paint by the artist to increase transparency and how glossy in appearance the paint is.

 

Granulation

Granulation in watercolours is an effect where instead of a smooth area of colour, the pigment particles settle out and create a speckled appearance. When watercolour pigments ‘granulate’, they form small dots and/or groups of flakes that are visually noticeable. Some colours have a natural tendency to granulate more than others, and watercolourists sometimes take advantage of them to add texture. There are mediums that can be added to increase granulation.

 

Ground

Watercolour grounds are acrylic-based primers designed to provide a suitable amount of absorbency to a surface, so that it is ready for watercolour to be applied. For example, they can be used to adapt any universally primed canvas for watercolour painting.

 

Gummed Tape / Gumstrip

Gummed Tape is a type of tape used for stretching watercolour paper. One side of the tape is coated with a glue which is water activated, meaning it becomes sticky when moistened, allowing it to strongly hold watercolour paper to a board. Unlike masking tape it is waterproof after it dries again and it doesn’t stretch.

 

taping paper to board

 

Hot Pressed Paper

Hot Pressed Paper is paper that has been pressed between hot metal rollers during production. It is the smoothest of watercolour papers. It tends to be the least absorbent of all of the textures and lends itself to highly-detailed work such as botanical painting.

 

Lifting

As watercolour remains soluble in water even after it’s dry, it can be reactivated with a wet brush and ‘lifted’ from the surface with a rag. This process removes some of the pigment from the paper, making the paint appear on the page.

 

Masking Fluid

Masking fluid is sometimes known as ‘liquid frisket’ and is used to mask off areas of your work. It is painted on with a brush, silicone tool or ruling pen and once dry you can then paint watercolour over the top. The masking fluid is then peeled off, leaving untouched plain areas of paper underneath. Useful for reserving the white of the paper for highlights and other small white areas of the painting.

 

Mass Tone

The appearance of the colour of the paint as it comes from the tube, as opposed to undertone.

 

watercolour tubes

 

Medium

An additive that is mixed with by the artist in order to help control how the paint behaves – including its texture, how it flows, how it lifts from the paper, how fast it dries and its sheen.

 

Natural Hair Brushes

Natural hair brushes are made using animal hair, such as sable or squirrel. An alternative would be synthetic brushes.

 

Ox Gall

Ox gall is used in watercolour as a wetting agent – ie. It improves flow, reduces beading up and allows for greater adhesion onto already dried layers of watercolour paint. It is made from the gall of cows mixed with alcohol. Many watercolours contain ox gall or a synthetic substitute, as an ingredient. Use ox gall sparingly as an additive by putting a few drops in your clean water container.

 

Pans

Pans are plastic vessels in which dried watercolour is stored. The colour is taken from a pan by dragging a wet brush over it. The paint may be poured into the pan and left to dry or extruded like clay and placed in the pan as a dried cake. There are two standard sizes: half pan and whole/full pan, though there is a small variation in size between brands.

 

watercolour pans

 

Permanence

Permanence takes into consideration the effects of many factors on the stability and appearance of pigments, including humidity, light, heat, water, acidity, alkali levels etc. The permanence of a paint will be indicated on the label using a rating system determined by the manufacturer and explained in the manufacturer’s colour chart or on their website. Be aware that some artists and manufacturers use it as an equivalent to ‘lightfast’.

 

Pigment

A pigment is finely ground colour made either in a laboratory or from naturally coloured rocks. When combined with gum arabic as the binder it makes watercolour paint.

 

Primer

Watercolour primers and grounds can be applied to a variety of materials including canvas, wood, stone, ceramic and plastic to create a surface that is absorbent enough to hold applications of watercolour and optimise the appearance of colours and marks.

 

Rough Paper

The most textured paper available – it is pressed between sheets of textured felt during the drying process and is not pressed between smooth rollers. The heavier textured surface means that granulating effects are enhanced.

 

 

Single Pigment Colours

Certain colours of paints that only contain one pigment. It is easier to mix bright and vibrant colours using single pigment colours and colour mixing is more predictable. Artist grade paint ranges have as many single pigment colours as they can. But when a “hue” is needed to replace a pigment that is no longer available, or a mixture of pigments has been found that can give a lightfast alternative to a fugitive colour, or a safe alternative to a toxic colour – then these look-alikes are usually made of more than one pigment. Common artist mixes are also sold as “convenience colours”, such as some greens, violets and oranges. However, some colours can only be made with a combination of pigments – popular colours such as Quinacridone Gold have to be mixed as the original pigment is no longer available.

 

Staining

Staining refers to how much of the pigment will not lift from the paper after being blotted with a damp sponge. Some pigments are more staining than others and some brands will list this characteristic for their paints.

 

Sticks

Watercolour sticks are dried and highly-pigmented watercolour in a thin brick or crayon form. They can be used in the same way as pans or they can be used as a drawing tool, held and applied in the same way you would use a crayon or pastel.

 

Stretch / Stretching

To stretch watercolour paper is a method of preparing it prior to painting. It involves soaking the paper in water until it swells and expands prior to fixing it to a board (usually with gumstrip around the edges) then allowing it to dry before painting. This technique is used to avoid buckling. There are also watercolour stretching frames.

 

Synthetic Brushes

Synthetic brushes are an affordable and hard-wearing alternative to Natural Hair Brushes. They are made using synthetic materials, as opposed to animal hair.

 

Jackson's Raven Mop Brush

Jackson’s Raven Mop brush, a synthetic alternative to squirrel brushes.

 

Transparency / Opacity

The measure of how much light is able to pass through an applied paint and interact with the surface beneath. Transparent paints appear more luminous on a white support because they allow a larger proportion of light to hit the surface they’re laying on. Opaque paints block this reflection from occurring, and can be used to cover layers of colour underneath. Watercolour paints are mostly transparent colours.

 

Tubes

Tubes contain moist watercolour that can be squeezed onto a palette to paint with or into empty pans.

 

Undertone

Undertone is the bias characteristic of a colour when applied across a surface in a thin film, e.g. Ultramarine blue would be said to have a reddish-blue undertone.

 

Washes

A ‘wash’ refers to the technique of generously applying diluted watercolour paint onto a surface or an existing painting resulting in a semi-transparent layer of colour. Washes are usually applied with a broad brush with natural hair that can hold a lot of fluid. See Flat Wash and Glazed Wash for examples.

 

watercolour pencils

 

Watercolour Pencils

Watercolour pencils are watercolour paint in a pencil format. They are convenient, versatile and portable painting tools that are clean and easy to use. They can be used dry as regular coloured pencils, or like pans (extracting colour using a wet brush), or they can be dipped into water and drawn with, creating intensely saturated marks. You can also draw with them onto wet paper and they are especially useful for adding fine lines.

 


 

Further Reading:

Making Beeswax Impasto Medium For Oil Painting

Size, Primer, Gesso And Ground Explained

Everything You Need To Know About Oil Painting Paper

A Guide To Oil Painting Mediums

Art Terms Explained: Oil Painting

 

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Review of the Roman Szmal Aquarius Mixing Palette Watercolour Set

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Roman Szmal Aquarius Watercolours have a growing popularity thanks to their vast range of single pigment colours. Here, Lisa Takahashi reviews the 14 full pan Mixing Palette set, and puts their colour mixing potential to the test.

 

 

Roman Szmal Aquarius Watercolour paints are a range of professional artist grade colours that are made in Poland. Production is kept in small batches to ensure consistent and dependable quality control, with an impressive 180 shades in the range. The majority of these (117 at last count) are single pigment colours, meaning that the colours appear vivid and full of vibrancy. The Mixing Palette set comprises 14 pans, 13 of which are single pigment colours, plus a two-pigment Quinacridone Gold.

 

First Impressions of the Roman Szmal Aquarius Mixing Palette Set

The metal enamel box is fairly standard in its design, with a folding out palette, some extra colour mixing space on the inside of the lid, and a thumb loop on the bottom to help keep it secure in your hand while painting. There is no extra space for adding more pans, but there is room for a brush (or two at a push) between the two rows of colours, should you wish to travel light. Within the set is a blank printed colour chart on cold pressed paper – a great idea as it encourages you to explore each colour in turn, while creating your own hand painted colour chart.

 

 

This also doubles up as a map of all your pans so you can tell which colour is which while you are working. For this particular set, the colour chart is invaluable, as colours such as Quinacridone Gold, Quinacridone Red and Phthalo Green in particular look so considerably different in the pan to how they appear brushed out, while Cyprus Raw Umber and Cobalt Cerulean Blue display such translucency and granulating properties that may not otherwise be predicted. The pans in the set I received looked a little haphazard in how they had been filled – with some colours overflowing a little while other colours looked less full. I have since learned that I was right to assume this is as a result of the pans being filled by hand.

The enamel watercolour tin is housed within a glossy cardboard sleeve, the graphic design of which has more of a hint of the 1990s about it! Roman Szmal’s slogan ‘Art Materials for Advanced Artists’ is printed top right, and offers some gentle reassurance on those occasional bad painting sessions that we all face from time to time.

 

Colour Choices within Roman Szmal’s Aquarius Mixing Palette

It was only on painting the colour chart that I released that this set does not contain Ivory Black, Chinese White, Raw Sienna, Cadmium Yellow or Red, no Olive or Sap Green, or Alizarin Crimson – all colours I would expect from a basic palette set. Additionally I noticed the number of synthetic colours present – Hansa Yellow Medium, Quinacridone Gold and Red, Phthalo Blue and Green. On one hand I felt reassured about the colour strength and permanence of these pigments, but I was curious to see whether they were capable of subtler colour mixes – the mixes you might crave when painting a traditional landscape, portrait or still life. I love the inclusion of Buff Titanium in this set as it’s such a useful light neutral hue that mixes beautifully with stronger colours without making them appear too pasty (as is sometimes the case when you mix with White). Hansa Yellow is a beautiful zingy yellow, but can be very powerful to work with; However, it can be tamed with a little colour mixing practice.

 

 

The Quinacridone Gold is a luminous, rich orangey gold that you can mix with the Hansa to create a softer yellow that feels a bit like Indian Yellow. Pyrrole Rubine is a great substitute for the more commonly featured Alizarin Crimson, and it dilutes to a beautiful purple-pink that would be useful in flower studies as well as skin tones. Quinacridone Red is actually a sugary pink that is fully lightfast and rather sumptuous. Other colours of note include Cyprus Raw Umber Deep, which is very transparent and subtle – a gorgeous earth colour, which can be easily overpowered by some of the other colours in this palette. It appears slightly more grey than other Raw Umbers I have used, for instance those by Winsor & Newton and Jackson’s. Cobalt Cerulean has the most prominent granulating properties which allow mixes to dry with beautiful dappled effects. Indian Red and Phthalo Blue are so powerful they should really come with a ‘use sparingly’ label! Goethite was a previously unfamiliar colour to me, but is somewhere in between Yellow Ochre and Raw Sienna, and dries evenly with only a slight granulation effect.

 

Painting a Quick Landscape Sketch Using Roman Szmal Aquarius Mixing Palette Set

Never let it be understated that working with unfamiliar colours can take a little getting used to. I found the colours in this set to be incredibly powerful – especially the yellows and blues, and was not especially keen on the lurid greens I mixed! You only need a small quantity of these synthetic pigments in your naturalistic mixes, and it will take getting used to if you are more familiar with organic or multiple pigment hues. However, that said I was wowed by how little colour you needed, and the noticeable character of each individual pigment. The runaway favourite colour for me was Cobalt Cerulean and how its granulating textures created a sumptuous sky wash.

 

 

With more time it would have been possible to create a painting with many layers yet still full of luminosity and character. For my landscape study, mixing was imperative in rendering the trees and grass as there are no naturalistic greens in the set. However I can see that with more time and a more subtle approach to mixing, a jewel-like landscape is more than possible with these potential laden hues. I found the colours to be lovely and moist and lifted easily and creamily from the pan – no doubt thanks to the ingredients of glycerin and Linden Honey, as well as Gum Arabic and distilled water in their formula. However it has to be said that when colours are as powerful yet as moist as this, you might find it takes practice to control the amount of paint you lift from the pan when mixing; it’s easy to pick up too much and overpower a mix without intending to.

 

Further Exploration into Colour Mixing with the Roman Szmal Aquarius Mixing Palette Set

While I could see the potential and strength of the colours in the Roman Szmal Mixing Palette set, I was not satisfied with my sketch – and wanted to make sure it was simply my unfamiliarity with the colours that was to blame, rather than the potential to mix this selection of pigments. Therefore I went on to mix combinations of mainly two colours, sometimes three and occasionally four, to capture a glimpse of the mixing potential within these 14 colours. By doing this you can see what naturalistic hues are possible, and get some idea as to whether this Roman Szmal Aquarius Mixing Palette Set will work for your painting approach.

 

 

Dark Mixes

Without Ivory Black or Paynes Grey, it was important to see what dark mixes could be created with the colours in this Mixing Palette set. I was pleased to find an ability to mix some attractive cool and warm near-blacks, and inadvertently made some lovely dark Pine Greens and rich granulating browns in the process as well.

 

 

Browns

I then focussed my attention on mixing browns. The variety possible in a very short space of time was reassuring – this is thanks to the array of reds and rusty colours in the set that easily combine with blue to make these rich earthy hues.

 

 

Yellows and Oranges

I do feel this set is lacking another shade of yellow. Hansa Yellow is not discreet or subtle – it’s a powerful primary yellow with little nuance or surprise in its undertone. Consequently aside from tinting it a bit in order to get a slightly pink version, or mustard version of the same colour, there’s not a whole lot of variety. I would have liked to see a Green Gold or an Indian Yellow, or a Yellow-Orange of some kind in the set, although with more time I suppose alternatives to all these suggestions would be possible with some further mixing. Another yellow would have also helped in the ability to create a greater range of oranges.

 

Greens

The variety of blues help to create some beautiful greens that would be invaluable when painting a lush pastoral landscape, and help you to avoid the stark shock of Phthalo Green, which is almost always too strong when used on its own! It’s particularly fascinating to see how Cobalt Cerulean partially separates out of mixes to create an almost iridescent effect.

 

 

Pinks and Reds

I love the choice of reds and pinks in the set, because you have a warm and cool and a bright pink, which is everything you could possibly need for most subject matter. When mixing these in with Buff Titanium you get some wonderful muted dusty pinks, which could be useful in painting skin tones, or light earth hues, or flowers.

 

 

Violets

The quick Violet mixes I made hint at a greater possible variety – but here already you can see the potential for rich red-wine-esque violets as well as lavender and soft violet greys. Very useful for shadows in portraiture or landscape, as well as flowers.

 

 

Blue-Greys

While the blues the Roman Szmal Mixing Palette set offers are strong and characterful, it’s important too to be able to mix softer blues and blue-greys, for skies, shadows and seas. The variety of cool greys you can mix is inspiring, and hints at the potential for the subtlety I like to work with alongside more dramatic impactful colours.

 

 

In short, the Roman Szmal Aquarius Mixing Palette Set has the potential for a wide variety of colour mixes. They are highly saturated, and as a result the pans will go further. The paint consistency is beautifully moist and a pleasure to work with. If you are used to more traditional, organic pigments the brightness of the synthetic pigments in this set may take getting used to, but if you invest the time there’s no doubt you will be rewarded with a really versatile palette of colours. Or alternatively, treat yourself to a second watercolour box and fill it with Roman Szmal Aquarius Ivory Black and any other more familiar colours that you might crave!

 


 

Shop Roman Szmal Aquarius Watercolours on jacksonsart.com

Shop Watercolour on jacksonsart.com

 

Further Reading

A First Look at Roman Szmal’s New Colours Within the Aquarius Watercolour Range

Inside the Sketchbook of Frances Ives

Art Terms Explained: Watercolour Painting

Everything You Need to Know About Watercolour Paper

 
 

The post Review of the Roman Szmal Aquarius Mixing Palette Watercolour Set appeared first on Jackson's Art Blog.

Two Painters Try Jackson’s Artist Pigments for Watercolour and Oil

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Jackson’s Artist Pigment range consists of 100 dry pigments, from modern synthetics to natural earths with each pigment having a different set of characteristics, such as tinting strength, opacity and granulation. Every pigment requires a different volume of binder to bring it to the desired consistency. We asked painters Evie Hatch and Rhiannon Piper to try them out for making oil and watercolour paints and share their thoughts with us.

 

 


Evie Hatch uses Jackson’s Artist Pigments to make watercolour paint

I work with both oil and watercolour paint, and a fairly large proportion of my palette is made up of handmade paints. I like to be in tune with the pigments I use and feel a certain amount of physical connection with the paint. The process of milling, mulling, testing, and mulling again slows down the creation of a painting, certainly, but I paint loosely and quickly so it is a welcome way of slowing down my thought process. I think it makes me a better painter.

 

 

The pigments I use frequently are like old friends, and I can be confident in how they are going to behave. When I was asked to try out some pigments I was interested to try some I hadn’t used before. I tried them with a watercolour binder first (gum Arabic solution, honey, and a little clove oil) so I could record the colours in my sketchbook before using them with an oil binder.

 

Titanium Orange (PBr24)

This is not a pigment I’ve ever encountered, but I’ve heard this makes a good alternative to Naples Yellow, a historical pigment I love.

 

 

I found that it has the versatile characteristic of being a dense, opaque orange in masstone but dilutes out to a much more gentle, and more yellow, colour. The colour shift from wet to dry was quite considerable in watercolour. When it’s wet it is a bright, marigold yellow, but it dries down to a rich orange. This colour shift would likely be less dramatic with more mulling, and much less noticeable in an oil binder, so it didn’t worry me too much.

 

 

The mixtures I could make with Titanium Orange were so interesting. With Cobalt Teal (PG50, handmade watercolour) it made a variety of greens from tropical to olive. With Cerulean Blue (PB36, handmade watercolour) it separated out into modulated browns and greens that reminded me of super-granulation watercolours.

 

 

Prussian Blue (PB27)

Having previously tried (and failed) to fall in love with Phthalo Blue, Prussian Blue makes me a bit nervous. Dark and strongly tinting, it is quite literally the opposite of blues I like to use. I love Cobalt Blue, Cerulean, Lapis Lazuli, and Azurite – gentle and gritty blues with medium to almost-non-existent tinting strengths.

At first glance, Prussian Blue seemed to be very similar to a Phthalo Blue Red Shade. Its transparency was clear as soon as I started mulling it.

 

 

As I was expecting, the colour is slightly duller after it dried (slightly less jewel-like than a Phthalo Blue). After mulling, the colour became smoother, brighter, and more consistent in texture.

 

 

Van Dyck Brown (NBr8)

This pigment came as a recommendation from a painter friend. The Michael Harding Van Dyck Brown oil paint (PBr6) is a lovely cool brown that I use regularly. But my friend suggested that I’d like the ashy quality of this dry pigment, so I was excited to try it out. It is closer to black than Van Dyck Browns that I’m used to, but it got warmer the more I milled it.

 

 

I will definitely be using this regularly. It’s lovely to mix with, as it doesn’t have the ‘harshness’ of a black paint, but still enables you to bring the chroma down in mixtures.

 

 

Benzymidazole Orange (PO36)

This was my favourite pigment. It is bright red in masstone, reddish-orange in dilution, and with heavy dilution (or in tints with white) it becomes a lovely peachy pink. It needs just a hint of yellow to become a really bright, fiery orange.

 

 

It couldn’t be more different to the Titanium Orange, which leans more towards yellow. In fact, the two oranges should be quite interesting to use together in a palette – one transparent and could be used in place of a red, and the other opaque and could take the role of a warm orange. It just goes to show that orange pigments don’t always have to be used as oranges.

 

 

With my watercolour trials done, I bound the pigments in linseed oil and used them in a painting. I couldn’t resist adding a barium chromate-based Lemon Yellow (PY31), a pigment not included in the Jackson’s range but which I hope might be soon… I also used a tube of Titanium White Jackson’s Artist Oil Paint, but all other paints were handmade.

 

 

The Benzymidazole Orange was incredibly versatile to use – it could add flashes of red, as well as soft pinks when mixed with white. The Prussian Blue with white made a lovely sky colour, thanks to its green bias, and also contributed to bright greens when mixed with the Titanium Orange. Titanium Orange particularly played the role of a yellow, and made a beautiful green when mixed with Van Dyck Brown.

 

 

Overall, I loved working with these pigments. Trying new colours made me realise how much I stick to familiar pigments, and I have benefitted from branching out. Benzymidazole Orange and Van Dyck Brown will certainly be new favourites- both turned out to be so useful. I think I will be returning to my familiar blue pigments– the strength of Prussian Blue has made me appreciate gentle blues even more! But in terms of value, a little Prussian Blue goes a long way and it would take an artist a long time to use a 10g pot, so I recommend it on that front, and I’m sure I’ll find myself reaching for it when I need to make a strong green.

 

 

I appreciate that Jackson’s dry pigments are available in small quantities so I can try them out before committing to a larger amount. I have far too many large containers of pigment that I may never get through. I also love the fact that the pigment index numbers are made really clear on both the pot and the website. Knowing which pigments I’m using is really important in choosing my palette. When I have an idea of the tinting strength, temperature, and texture of the pigment I can choose the colours accordingly. I’m also interested in the variety of natural earths in the range– earths are some of my favourite pigments to work with, and I look forward to enriching my collection.

 

About Evie Hatch

Evie lives and works in Brixton, South London. In 2016 she graduated from Camberwell College of Art with a degree in fine art drawing. Since then, her work has been an exploration of the physicality of paint, reimagining the mythological subjects of European painting and pushing their forms towards the boundary of abstraction. This year, Evie has been studying art history at the Courtauld Institute of Art, a line of enquiry that informs her painting practice.

Follow Evie on Instagram

 


 

Rhiannon Piper uses Jackson’s Artist Pigments to make oil paint

 

 

My name is Rhiannon Piper, I’m an artist based in the UK. I enjoy making my own paints to use in my practice, mainly oil paints. Jackson’s Art Supplies kindly reached out to send me some of their own brand materials to review.

 

Products I will be testing:

  • Jackson’s Refined Linseed Oil
  • Jackson’s Extra Offset Crank Painting Knife No.8
  • Jackson’s Empty Aluminium Paint Tube 14 ml
  • Jackson’s Artist Pigments

 


 

Jackson’s Refined Linseed Oil

Jackson’s Refined Linseed Oil arrived in a metal canister. I will note that I did make a little bit of mess around the rim when initially trying to pour directly from the canister, I quickly swapped to using a pipette which worked perfectly. The product itself was very fluid, more so in comparison to other brands, with a slight yellow hue. I used this linseed oil as a binder for the pigments, the fluidity of the linseed oil overall allowed for less of the oil being required to reach a desired consistency.

 


 

I would recommend this Refined Linseed Oil for use as a binder, it is very fluid so it may run the risk of making your paint ‘muddy’ if you chose to use it as a medium. However, its transparency and minimal yellow hue will ensure your paints don’t alter in colour and a little goes a long way.

 

Jackson’s Painting Knife No.8

I selected Jackson’s Extra Offset Crank Painting Knife No.8 to use in the making of oil paints. This would really test the durability of the palette knife, as the initial stages of mixing require more pressure. I have personally had many cheaper palette knives break whilst making oil paint, and I’m very pleased to say that this palette knife didn’t.

 

 

The longer handle on this palette knife was very comfortable and its narrow head was ideal for the smaller aluminium tubes. I would highly recommend looking at their palette knives, very affordable and durable.

 

Jackson’s Aluminium Paint Tubes

I selected some of Jackson’s Empty Aluminium Paint Tubes in 14 ml. The aluminium is very easy to manipulate, which makes sealing the tubes easy enough with pliers.

 

 

I would highly recommend, regardless of if you make your own paint or not. These are useful for any extra paint. I personally would mix the remainder of paint left on my palette to create a neutral shade and store it in these smaller tubes for later use, ensuring no paint goes to waste.

 

Jackson’s Artist Pigments

My first impression when receiving Jackson’s Artists Pigments was in regards to the tubs they come in. I had gotten the 100 g worth containers of pigment, and the size enabled me to be able to use measuring spoons without having to transfer the pigment to an external vessel. I have previously used pigments that arrived in bag-like packaging, and in comparison, these containers are much more efficient.

I selected six of the Jackson’s Artist Pigments to test: Permanent Orange, Green Earth, Potter’s Pink, Cadmium Yellow Pale, Manganese Violet Deep and Ultramarine (Red Shade). I chose these specific pigments for a wide variety of both price and colour.

To test each of these Artist Pigments I will be using the same measured amount of pigment (1 Tbsp) and will be noting down the needed amount of Refined Linseed oil it takes to reach its desired consistency. I prefer a slightly stiffer consistency in my oil paints so the results will be with that in mind.

Following the making of all the oil paint I will then test to see how they apply to a surface as well as how they interact and mix with one another. This will be done through a quick painting.

 

Permanent Orange

Permanent Orange was a beautiful colour. Out of all 6 of the pigments that I will be reviewing today, this pigment was the easiest to mix with the binder. The pigment itself absorbed the linseed oil the fastest and was the smoothest when being mulled. I do really like this pigment; it was very easy to work with and took the least amount of time to reach its desired consistency.

Pigment amount used: 1 tbsp

Required amount of Refined Linseed Oil: 7 ml

Opacity: Opaque

 

 

 

Green Earth

This pigment is a lovely colour, however requires more attention to get to the desired consistency. It has a grittier texture compared to other earth pigments and does require more time to smooth out. I wouldn’t suggest this pigment for someone looking to start making their own paints however, it is the most affordable pigment out of those being reviewed. Being a transparent pigment, it could be brilliant for glazing. I have found that this pigment works better in other mediums such as watercolour.

Pigment amount used: 1 tbsp

Required amount of Refined Linseed Oil: 8 ml

Opacity: Transparent

 

 

 

Potter’s Pink

Potter’s Pink is a unique colour. It is also a very fine pigment, I believe this is why it required the least amount of linseed oil out of all six pigments to reach the desired consistency. It was similar in grittiness initially to Green Earth, however, it didn’t require as much time to smooth out. I would recommend this pigment. When diluted with Linseed oil it provides a very smooth and even colour that would be lovely when layering.

Pigment amount used: 1 tbsp

Required amount of Refined Linseed Oil: 5 ml

Opacity: Semi-Transparent

 

 

 

Cadmium Yellow Pale

Cadmium Yellow Pale was a beautiful colour, very vibrant. During the mixing process I noticed it was slightly stiffer than the others, being almost clay-like in consistency. This was ideal for my preferred stiffer consistency. The colour itself was very rich and uniform in application, it will definitely become a staple in my collection.

Pigment amount used: 1 tbsp

Required amount of Refined Linseed Oil: 9 ml

Opacity: Semi-Opaque

 

 

 

Manganese Violet Deep

Manganese Violet Deep is a lovely deep purple. The pigment itself was easy to get to the desired consistency despite needing the most linseed oil our of all six pigments. I would recommend this pigment as it was easy to work with and is a gorgeous shade, it took a little longer to mix but the final product is worth it. The only thing to keep in mind is the price of this pigment, it is the most expensive out of the ones being reviewed here which may be a limiting factor to some looking to start out making their own paint.

Pigment amount used: 1 tbsp

Required amount of Refined Linseed Oil: 10 ml

Opacity: Semi-Transparent

 

 

 

Ultramarine (Red Shade)

Ultramarine (Red Shade) is a very bold blue. The pigment mixed effortlessly with the binder and created a very smooth texture. The colour itself is very consistent, providing a uniform application to a surface. The price is affordable for such a rich pigment. It’s a Semi-transparent pigment so it would be perfect when layering, or mixed with a white for a saturated light blue.

Pigment amount used: 1 tbsp

Required amount of Refined Linseed Oil: 7 ml

Opacity: Semi-Transparent

 

 

 

To conclude I wanted to test how these oil paints would interact and mix with each other on a surface. I did a quick 20-minute painting using these pigments (As well as 2 paints made from Jackson’s Artist Pigments I already own: Titanium White Anatase and Mars Black).

Overall, I have really enjoyed using these materials. After testing all the oil paints on a quick painting, as seen above, I can say I didn’t run into any issue with the paints getting ‘muddy’ whilst using the refined linseed oil as a solvent. However, due to the high fluidity of the linseed oil, much less is needed and may require some getting used to.

 

 

You can see from the painting that the colours do maintain their saturation, the only pigment I was unable to use was ‘Green Earth’ which I could see working better as a glaze or when layering. As this was a quick painting (done alla prima), I was unable to fully test it. On the other hand, I was able to test how the pigments interacted with one another by using Ultramarine (Red Shade) and Cadmium Yellow Pale to make a green shade for the leaves.

The pigments make lovely oil paints, and they interact with each other as pre-made paint would. I would highly recommend not only exploring making your own paints but using these pigments to do so. I have used Jackson’s Artist Pigments for about a year now, and will continue to do so for the near future.

 


 

About Rhiannon Piper

Rhiannon Piper is an artist based in Leeds. She began her journey in art when she was growing up in China and has since gone on to study Fine Art at the University of Leeds. Her work explores deep, thoughtful, and sometimes darker themes using narrative, iconology, and symbolism. She started making her own oil paints in 2019 to become more involved in the creative process and has continued to do so since.

Rhiannon has recently exhibited in, and group curated a show in Leeds entitled “Humans?”, featuring 8 artists who explored and aimed to define what it means to be human. She has dedicated her time to sharing her work and processes on social media and her website, where she gets her global engagement.

Follow Rhiannon on Instagram
Visit Rhiannon’s website
Follow Rhiannon on TikTok

 

Further Reading

Jackson’s Pigment Colour Index Series

Pigment Stories Series

Making Handmade Watercolours with Jackson’s Artist Pigments

 

Shop Jackson’s Artist Pigments on jacksonsart.com

Shop pigments on jacksonsart.com

 

The post Two Painters Try Jackson’s Artist Pigments for Watercolour and Oil appeared first on Jackson's Art Blog.

Preparing a Watercolour Gouache Palette for Painting on Location

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Painting on location has been a key part of my practice for several years and watercolour gouache has become one of my core materials to use, but I wanted to find a way to prepare and transport it as efficiently as possible without compromising on the qualities of the material itself. Here, I share my experiments preparing a watercolour gouache palette to use on location as well as tips for selecting your colours depending on location, season and atmosphere.


 

Painting on Location

My location painting kit has gone through many, many iterations – from taking a few pencils and a water brush with a tiny sketchbook and pre-made watercolour set, to a whole bag full of everything I love. Using mixed media the way that I do can end up being quite a heavy load on the back!

 

 

I like to be able to build layers of opaque paint, but I also love the transparent layers you can build with inks and watercolour. In the past I’ve taken individual tubes of paint with me, or self curated watercolour palettes, mixing ink and watercolour with gouache or acrylic gouache to get the consistency I wanted. This can be quite a long process, and it’s always messy! My friends will attest to the fact that I am not the neatest worker, and by the end of a drawing stint I would usually be surrounded by tubes and a very grubby, sludge coloured palette, full of half dried out paint that quickly became unusable (and natures detritus didn’t help either). I’ve been trying to find ways to make this easier for myself since late 2019, after I took a trip to London at Christmas to draw at the natural history museum with so many materials in my backpack I had to take a separate overnight bag and my shoulders hurt for the next three days. These days, I try to pack practically – to be aware of the space that I intend to draw, do a little bit of research and think about the colours I might use as well as the materials I might need.

 

 

Why Watercolour Gouache?

I have tried a lot of different materials combinations along the way, always with the aim of getting the atmosphere of a place. I use dry materials like coloured pencils and pastels, because they travel so easily, and you can blend materials like the Derwent Inktense Pencils or Faber Castell Albrecht Durer Watercolour Markers with a water brush pen. Yet I always gravitate back towards water based paints or inks, and miss them when I don’t have them. I would always pack a white gouache or acrylic gouache, and then maybe a few individual colours that are a little unusual or harder to mix. I curated my own small watercolour palettes, but when taking to paper struggled to get the opacity I wanted in the final layers of my drawing without using a lot of pencil. When I first tried watercolour gouache, I realised that this medium could solve a lot of the problems I was having. I remember the first colours I picked of the Shin Han Pass Watercolour Gouache were Indigo, Linden Green, White and Shell Pink. They were on promotion, and they sounded interesting and I am definitely a sucker for an unusual product; but I was sceptical about how they would work, and if they really could perform as both watercolour and gouache.

 

 

I ended up rocketing through my first tubes, and quickly purchased another Indigo and White, worrying that they would sell out. (I’m like that – multiples of all my favourites just in case) I ended up using them regularly on location. Due to the matt nature of watercolour gouache, they are easy to layer and draw over, and they dry relatively quickly too, which is always helpful on location. You can also achieve larger areas of flat colour with gouache, but I preferred the soft midway point, where you can still just about see through a colour, and where lighter areas still granulate like a watercolour might. The versatility of these paints is really what makes them unique for me, and the ability to manipulate them and blend them with other materials is so important in my location drawing kit.

 

 

Problems I Encountered

The first time I tried to put my watercolour gouache into a palette, I hit a few bumps. The first was a very basic error. These paints are wet and they take a day or so to dry – learn from me, and don’t move the palette about before they have done. The first time I decanted into a palette I chose the Frank Herring Compact Palette, which is a good size, but also has quite a large hole in the bottom for when your watercolour gouache wants to turn to dust and escape. This is actually what happened – I noticed bright red flakes at the bottom of my bag, and discovered that all brighter and lighter pigments had cracked, and in the worst case, crumbled and fallen out altogether. I persevered by adding more paints of different colours and some of them seemed to stay in the palette better. However, these paints don’t behave like watercolour on the page or in the pan, and I found myself giving up and going back to my old methods of individual tubes and a small watercolour palette.

 

Finding a Way to Make it the Watercolour Gouache Stay in the Palette

I didn’t have a problem going back to my old way of working on location, but I was still frustrated by the individual tubes floating around at the bottom of every bag I owned. Typically, I almost never had the one I really wanted, either. I went back to looking at palettes, and after asking around discovered the Mijello Folding Plastic Palette. My thinking was that if this palette were airtight, the paint wouldn’t dry out, and to some extent it worked. However, the flaw in the plan was that I needed to open and use the palette in order to paint. Needless to say they also crumbled as well, just at a slightly slower speed. Again, I noticed it was the brighter colours that seemed to go first.

I had been experimenting with making some of my own watercolours with individual pigments, and seeing that Gum Arabic is regularly used in the production of watercolour as a pigment binder, I wondered, could this work for watercolour gouache too?

 

 

I chose three primary colours, to see if there was any obvious correlation between performance and pigment makeup. I used a palette knife to mix one small drop of Gum Arabic to approximately a 15 ml of paint, on a dry flat surface (I used a plane tile from a hardware store) and mixed the Gum Arabic in thoroughly. I wanted to compare how the paint applied normally, and with the Gum Arabic next to each other, so as to see and feel any differences.

 

Preparing watercolour gouache location

 

I made swatches of both the Gum Arabic and normal paints before I put them in a palette, to compare how the two options performed. I didn’t expect it, but perhaps it makes sense that the pigment seemed to stretch further when mixed with the Gum Arabic. I had initially been worried that the pigment would be diluted, which would defeat the purpose of the whole experiment! The watercolour gouache retained its strength of colour and the matt finish, and I still felt able to build it to a full matt block of colour.

 

The left swatches of each colour are without Gum Arabic and the right swatches for each colour are with Gum Arabic.

 

I then proceeded to put the Vermillion Hue, Permanent Yellow and Ultramarine Deep paints into the Jackson’s palette, and left it open for a day to dry down, and then shut it for another two days.

 

Preparing watercolour gouache location

 

Picking it up again after this time, I could immediately hear rattling, and thought I’d have to go back to the drawing board and find another medium to make them last longer and stop breaking. Happily however, it seemed to work, and the paint with the Gum Arabic in appeared to have a lot less cracks than the pure paint. It was the yellow that had shattered completely, but when the Gum Arabic was in the paint it seemed to last longer. I decided to persevere and mix more colours with Gum Arabic, hoping that I was onto something. Across these three colours, there were still more visible cracks in the lighter colours, but they seemed to be staying put this time.

 

Watercolour gouache palette prepared with Gum Arabic for painting on location.

 

gouache palette

Top palette: Without Gum Arabic.
Bottom palette: With Gum Arabic.

 

Preparing a Watercolour Gouache Colour Palette

When choosing a palette to take on location, there are multiple things I like to consider, but the main one for me is always the season. For example, in the winter I might add an extra blue, or an aubergine from the tube, and change a bright green for an earth green. In the Autumn I might add Burnt Sienna and Gold instead, to reflect not only the seasonal changes, but the atmosphere of a season.

 

 

Every palette I create has a warm and cool red, yellow, blue and white where applicable. From these, you can make almost every colour you need according to colour theory, and in the past this is all I have taken out with me. However, as I draw outside a lot, and usually choose a place with at least some foliage (my preference is a whole forest but that’s not always practical), I like to take some pre-mixed greens. I often use them straight from the tube, although I will always avoid anything called ‘grass green’ because, in my opinion, that colour name is a lie and almost never looks like grass. At the moment, in the UK, there’s a bright, almost luminous yellow green that comes through the leaves and grasses when the late sun hits the grass in the distance. There’s also warmer olive greens of slightly dry leaves which are colours that I’m reaching for a lot, so I chose to have those in pre-mixed form in my palette.

 

 

I also like to make my own blacks, as I feel a chromatic black can look somehow more natural in comparison to a black from the tube, and you can manipulate the colour balance to suit your drawing. For this watercolour gouache palette, I chose Brown Red, Shadow Green and Indigo to cover my ‘darks’ criteria.

 

watercolour gouache palette

 

I also opted for some bright and luminous individual colours that are either harder or impossible to mix yourself due to the pigment makeup, and a couple I thought I might use more of at this time of year. Cambridge seems to have a lot of purple flowers at the moment, so I packed a heliotrope, and of course, hardly used it. Lastly, I made sure there was plenty of white, and still took a tube along with me – although I didn’t need to use it for this drawing.

 

Watercolour gouache on location

 

I found this colour range to work well for me at the Botanic Gardens in Cambridge. I know the place well, so had a good idea of what I might need, and I ended up using a lot of the pre-mixed greens as predicted. The most used were Sap Green and Linden Green. I also used the Luminous Yellow, and a touch of the (nearly luminous) Pink as a bright, but only in the smallest amounts! I recommend taking a palette with you that you can mix colours from, but also one that you feel most comfortable with. If you know that you love muted colours, consider adding a couple of those and maybe a bright accent, alongside the primary colours and white.

 

Preparing watercolour gouache location

The range of opacity you can get with these paints is ideal for me when working on location.

 

Choosing a Palette

I chose a Studio Essentials Watertight Folding Plastic Palette 18 Well with ample room for mixing colours. I know I am a messy worker (the evidence is on my palette) so I need the space to mix away to my heart’s content. The shallow paint areas meant that I didn’t feel like I needed to mix a lot of the paint with the Gum Arabic, and was therefore less wasteful (especially as I wasn’t sure it would work at this point!) However, there is no reason why a normal palette with individual wells wouldn’t work for this. It would be worth experimenting with filling the wells like watercolour, but I suspect that if you filled a well too quickly and didn’t leave layers to dry, the watercolour gouache would be more likely to crack after drying. The airtight palette means that apart the time the palette is in use, the paint isn’t drying out, and therefore increases the longevity of the paint.

 

 

Mark Making with Watercolour Gouache

I love the range of textures and marks you can get with watercolour gouache. You can quite clearly see brushstrokes and areas where the paint is more opaque. I find this invaluable for adding flashes of brighter colour, or working over the top of existing marks. Generally, it’s very easy to work with, for me it is easier than watercolour, and feels more fluid when you squeeze it out of the tube too. You still get that beautiful granulation when you mix certain colours on your palette. When I mixed the Ultramarine Deep, Vermillion Hue and Permanent Yellow at different ratios, it was so easy to get a textured watercolour effect. On location I use a refillable water brush pen and due to the synthetic hairs they can take quite a bit of rough work and still retain their shape. Sometimes, I scrape the paint on, and I have been known to use my fingers too to get a softness when the paint is tacky. I should add that taking some kind of wet wipe with you is pretty essential if you want to try this method.

 

Preparing watercolour gouache location

 

 

Some Final Thoughts

I left the palette of watercolour gouache mixed with Gum Arabic alone for a couple of weeks. It’s been warm and dry here in the UK, and the palette was stored in boxes, but I was slightly disappointed to see on opening it again that a couple of the colours had crumbled. Some of them were the same culprits as before – the Cerulean and White both had deep cracks and were broken. However, the Lemon Yellow and Pink seem to have held up a lot better with the addition of Gum Arabic. This is an experiment where there are a lot of factors at play, and it could be the way the paint has spread (or not spread) in the pan, or how thoroughly I mixed the Gum Arabic in. I think it’s probably worth me adding a little more Gum Arabic to the colours that seem to crumble, as the change in the consistency whilst painting was minimal in my opinion. Or maybe I’ll try and find a different blue that has the same function in my palette, but is happier there! And, of course, take a separate tube of white along too. I do use a lot anyway!

If you are going on a break for a couple of weeks, and don’t want to take every tube of paint with you, I have found that this palette is a good alternative and won’t take up that precious liquid allowance and suitcase space. I’m going to persevere with adding Gum Arabic in different quantities, mainly because I feel like I’ve got an idea I don’t want to let go, but also for the sake of my back!

 

Further Reading

Inside the Sketchbook of Frances Ives

Using Soft Pastels for Observational Drawing

Developing a Daily Drawing Practice With the Royal Drawing School

Review of Shinhan Professional Designers Gouache

Small Size Tubes for Plein Air Oil Painting

 

Shop watercolour at jacksonsart.com

Shop gouache at jacksonsart.com

 

The post Preparing a Watercolour Gouache Palette for Painting on Location appeared first on Jackson's Art Blog.


Introducing Da Vinci Colineo: Vegan Brushes for Watercolour

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Natural Kolinsky sable brushes are the traditional choice for watercolour artists, but more and more watercolourists are looking for excellent synthetic alternatives. Here, Lois Davidson reviews Da Vinci’s new Colineo range of synthetic Kolinsky sable watercolour brushes.


 

Trying the new Da Vinci Kolinsky Colineo Brushes, from their new range of synthetic Kolinsky sable watercolour brushes, was very appealing because few things pique my interest more than new watercolour brushes. For some time now, I, like many others, have been intrigued by the growing selection of synthetic equivalents and alternatives to traditional animal-hair brushes. There’s currently a large, and growing, market in animal-free/vegan art materials, for reasons including lifestyle choice, sustainability issues, and affordability.

For most watercolour artists, the so-called Holy Grail of brushes has been those made from the rare and costly Siberian Kolinsky Red Sable. Made from the guard hairs from the tail of a rare species of Siberian weasel, these specific hairs are said to cost three times the price of gold, weight for weight. Understandably, the watercolour brush industry has been investing considerable time, money, and resources into coming up with a synthetic alternative to these costly materials; something which properly imitates the special properties of Siberian Kolinsky Red Sable. So, when Da Vinci claim to have achieved this lofty goal with their new Colineo range, I was keen to try the brushes out, and test these claims.

 

First Impressions

I am trying out a pair of matched brushes comprising of a number 8 round brush, and a number 12 flat brush. My first impression is that they look incredibly sleek and elegant. The silver metal ferrules are double-crimped, in a similar fashion to the famed Winsor & Newton Series 7 Kolinsky Sable brushes. This is to ensure the brush head won’t come loose. The handles are long, light, ergonomically shaped, and feel well-balanced in the hand, with an attractive lime-washed wood effect. No matter where you hold the brushes the balance feels great: whether you hold them close to the ferrule for detailed work such as botanicals and illustration, or towards the end for a looser, more expressive style of painting. The brush heads look just like their sable counterparts, with soft reddish-brown fibres. The round brush is delightfully plump with a fine point, and the flat is also relatively plump with what looks to be a fine, flat chisel edge.

 

 

Testing the Da Vinci Colineo Size 8 Round Watercolour Brush

The best sable brushes are well-made and hold plenty of paint, releasing it slowly and evenly onto the paper. They should also be flexible, springing readily back into shape so that the artist can move smoothly from large washes to fine brushwork with a single, fluid motion. The Da Vinci Number 8 round did not disappoint. Upon testing, I was able to quickly and evenly create beautiful yet varied lines and washes, carrying plenty of paint and water, with the tip providing some incredibly fine lines. The round is often seen as one of the key ‘work horse’ brushes for most styles and genres of watercolour painting; and this brush seems more than capable of doing anything an animal-hair brush can do, both in terms of spring/flexibility, paint/water retaining abilities, and keeping an excellent point for its size, as well as its versatility in creating a wide variety of marks.

 

 

Trying the Da Vinci Colineo Size 12 Flat Watercolour Brush

This smaller brush still manages to hold an impressive amount of paint/water for its size, while simultaneously maintaining a razor-sharp chisel edge. This is a great characteristic in any flat, which allows the delivery not only of some very fine, even lines, but enables accurate hard edges and blocks to be created too, when the belly of the brush is pressed quite firmly against the paper for the brushstroke. It holds enough paint to complete most tasks without having to reload the brush, which often leads to a cleaner, fresher finish. I found the size 12 flat an incredibly efficient and easy to use ‘one-stroke’ brush; however, I do tend towards using bigger brushes for my own work; so, I will certainly be ordering one of the larger sizes of flat to add to my personal collection.

 

 

Painting a Vase of Flowers, Using Only the Two-Brush Set

I decided a good trial of these brushes would be to try a small painting using only this pairing, to properly test their performance and versatility. I sketched out a simple, loose vase of flowers on a piece of Arches cold pressed watercolour paper. I began by painting in a pale, washy, wet-in-wet background using the round brush, leaving the negative space unpainted for the flowers. Once dry, I moved between the flat and the round to add the flowers, leaves, and accents.

I found both brushes very comfortable to use, efficiently carrying the paint and water so I could deliver it in exactly the way I wanted – with either the point or the belly of the brush – working quickly and intuitively into the wet and dry parts of the paper, creating a variety of soft and hard edges. I balanced the softer, washy marks with strong darks, then added details quickly with the chisel edge of the flat brush. As I expected, the round brush did most of the work for this painting. I swapped to the flat for some focused, sharp areas of dark, to negatively paint the vase and lift a few highlights, as well as placing some important geometric dry-brush glazes to complete the painting.

 

 

As I painted, I very quickly became lost in the process. I was thrilled with the variety of marks and washes I could create using only these two brushes and ended up completely forgetting that I was testing new brushes for the first time. This, to me, is a sign of excellence; they feel like a natural extension of your hand and creative thoughts straight away, without an awkward ‘settling in’ period.

In my opinion, Da Vinci has succeeded in creating an impressive synthetic alternative to the classic Kolinsky Sable. There is a remarkable beauty in this pair of Da Vinci Colineo brushes: the combination of straight and wavy synthetic fibres works perfectly to deliver the appearance, spring, flexibility, and water-carrying capabilities of the very best sables. The felt like tried-and-true brushes from the moment I began to work with them, comfortable and light. The elegantly shaped handles help deliver an economy of movement and are perfectly balanced, no matter whether you are working on fine detail, or larger and looser work. Overall, I was impressed. I had high hopes for these brushes from the beginning, and I personally believe that Da Vinci has made good on their promise: to deliver a beautiful, high-quality, synthetic alternative to the classic Kolinsky Sable.
 


 

Further Reading on the Jackson’s Art Blog

The Vegan Watercolourist: Sandrine Maugy

How Da Vinci Watercolour Brushes are Made

Two Painters Test Jackson’s Watercolour Brushes

Watercolour Painting for Beginners: What You Need to get Started

Why is a Da Vinci Brush a Great Watercolour Travel Brush?

Comparing Two Top Sable Watercolour Brushes

 

See more da Vinci watercolour brushes here

Shop watercolour on jacksonsart.com

The post Introducing Da Vinci Colineo: Vegan Brushes for Watercolour appeared first on Jackson's Art Blog.

Inside the Sketchbook of Evie Hatch

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Evie Hatch is an artist and writer whose sketchbook practice traverses her investigations into drawing, painting, pigments and paint making, as well as recording day-to-day notes. You may already be familiar with Evie from her writing here on the blog, so we’re thrilled to feature a deeper look into her personal practice and share her pragmatic and intimate advice on her use of sketchbooks.


 

 

Evie Hatch takes us through her sketchbook practice

Looking back, I think I grew up with a sketchbook practice. Both of my parents kept sketchbooks, diaries, and notebooks to document, remember, and record, so it was natural that I would do the same in my own way. I remember at primary and secondary school we were given flimsy little ‘rough books’– so-named to suggest that there was no expectations of presentation. They were for scribbling in, doodling, trying out pens, passing notes, drawing hearts around the names of classmates we liked– anything we wanted. Without knowing it we were all keeping sketchbooks, we just weren’t given the language to reflect that.

 


 

My practice is very materials-led, and it is particularly led by pigments and their characteristics. I make most of my own paints with dry pigment and linseed oil (to make oil paint) or gum arabic (to make watercolour). Making paint gives you so much control over its texture, consistency, and strength. I love the control it gives you over the paint. Making paint can be time-consuming, but because I paint quickly it’s very beneficial to have part of the process that slows me down, increasing time for decision-making. I think it makes me a better painter.

 

 

My sketchbook is where I test and record all of my watercolour paints, whether handmade or from a tube. When I’m painting in my sketchbook I make sure I note what colours I’m using, the pigment index numbers and, if from a tube, the brand name. Details like this make it easy to remember what works and what doesn’t. If I choose to translate something from my sketchbook to an oil painting, I can be really informed about what pigments I use.

 

 

 

I usually use one sketchbook at a time and Stillman & Birn sketchbooks are my go-to choice, particularly the Beta series which contains 270 gsm cold pressed, off white paper. I use a lot of watercolour so I prefer a heavyweight paper that won’t buckle. I tend to alternate between the 8 x 10 in portrait and 8.5 x 5.5 in landscape sizes. I prefer the softcover versions of their sketchbooks– the hardcover ones are more sturdy but I just love the velvety feel of the softcover!

 

 

Occasionally I’ll have a sketchbook for a particular medium or occasion. For example, a whole book for silverpoint drawing, an old drawing technique of using a silver stylus on a prepared abrasive ground. If I’m going on a big holiday I like to dedicate a whole sketchbook to it.

 

 

My oil paintings are often quite small, so I find it useful to prepare a page by drawing around a panel and lining the edges with masking tape. In this way I can make ‘mini’ paintings that can easily be translated into an oil painting. Most things in my sketchbooks don’t get translated into paintings. though. I don’t subscribe to the idea of a sketchbook always being a place of preparation for ‘the real thing’. The pages can be works in themselves.

 

 

I don’t take my sketchbook everywhere. Most of my sketchbook work is done in my studio, at home, or when I go to a museum or gallery. There is nothing better than an afternoon at the National Gallery or Tate Britain with my sketchbook drawing from a Titian, a Rembrandt or a Fragonard. I could lose myself for hours. By repeating a drawing over and over again certain elements begin to lose meaning and become abstracted, until new meanings and narratives begin to form. These drawings are what sow the seeds for a new painting. Last year I began studying Art History at the Courtauld Institute in London. The academic study of paintings of the past has informed my own work, but equally my artistic practice informs my approach to the subject. The first step before writing an essay is drawing the work I’m writing about in my sketchbook– it’s an exercise in looking that means I notice things I hadn’t seen before.

 

 

My sketchbook pages are also home to various mundane things– shopping lists, to-do lists, dreams, nightmares, notes-to-self, whatever I need to write down. I prefer to integrate everything into one place, rather than have different sketchbooks for different purposes running concurrently. Looking back at old sketchbooks, it’s actually these banalities that really provide a snapshot of a particular moment in time. It also helps remind me not to be precious about sketchbooks– there are no rules about what they can contain.

 

 

I can’t stress enough the importance of dating sketchbooks. When I fill one, I label the spine with acrylic paint so I can identify when it was started and when it was completed. It’s surprising how easy it is to forget when a sketchbook was used. One thing I struggle with is starting a new sketchbook. It’s my least favourite part– cracking the spine and being confronted with pages and pages of blank space is daunting! One of the ways I get around this is opening a random page and starting there. It takes away some of the pressure of making that first mark on the first page.

 

 

Sketchbooks are an immediate and vital part of my practice. Everyone has a different relationship with their sketchbooks– different habits, different materials, and different approaches. This is what makes them the most intimate portrait of an artist.

 

Materials I use:

Stillman & Birn Beta Softcover Sketchbooks

Jackson’s Artist Pigments

Roberson Dry Pigments

Gum Arabic Solution

Daniel Smith Watercolours

Winsor & Newton Permanent White Gouache

Koh-i-Noor Retractable Pencil

Caran D’ache Luminance Pencils

Low-tack Masking Tape

Golden Silverpoint Ground

Silverpoint

 


 

About Evie Hatch

Evie moved to London in 2013 to study Drawing at Camberwell College of Art and has stayed ever since, painting from her studio in Brixton. She has been an art writer at Jackson’s since 2019, contributing articles relating to pigments, their properties, and how they have been used throughout history. This year Evie graduated from the Courtauld Institute of Art, London, with a Graduate Diploma in Art History. She will be returning in the autumn to study for a Masters specialising in art of the European Middle Ages.

Follow Evie on Instagram

 

 


 

Further Reading

Inside the Sketchbook of Kay Gasei

Making Handmade Watercolours With Jackson’s Artist Pigments

Developing a Daily Drawing Practice With the Royal Drawing School

Making Your Own Oil Paint With Jackson’s Pigments

 

Shop sketchbooks on jacksonsart.com

 

The post Inside the Sketchbook of Evie Hatch appeared first on Jackson's Art Blog.

Inside the Sketchbook of Juliette Losq

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Juliette Losq is an artist whose practice subverts the traditional use of watercolour through scale and complexity both in her paintings and installations. Her sketchbooks are packed with imagery and ideas that she gathers, cuts into, tears through and paints over, on the journey to develop her final compositions. Here, Juliette discusses her process in detail and shares her practical approach to making the most of her sketchbooks.


 

 

Juliette Losq Takes Us Through Her Sketchbook Practice

Sketchbooks for me, are a combination of a journal and a scrapbook. I collect paper and ephemera from journals and magazines dating back to the nineteenth century. I acquire these from eBay or from bookshops. I tend to be drawn to Victorian illustrations, woodcuts and optical toys. I’ve also collected photography magazines from the 1930s and 40s – anything that contains images that interest me visually in some way. Often, I don’t know until I’ve bought an item what its full content is. Sometimes I include the whole item within my sketchbook or photocopy the relevant images. I might erase from images, so that they become unpopulated landscapes. Removing the figures turns the landscape into a kind of empty set. Occasionally, these figures reappear as hidden characters within my work, who may or may not be discovered by viewers. I also make alterations to historical images, to reflect the contemporary landscape, for example, or to suggest an alternative narrative to the one originally presented.

 

 

Juliette Losq Sketchbook

 

I also keep photographs from current magazines that might be of interest in terms of suggesting future compositions. If I come across the work of an artist I like in a magazine or online, I cut or print this out and use the sketchbook as a way of storing it. I’ll make notes on sketchbook pages of any recommendations I’ve been given by other artists, of shows to check out or books to read, for example.

 

Juliette Losq Sketchbook

 

 

Occasionally I’ll use a sketchbook to group images together. For example, I’m interested in rococo forms and the way they stylise and exaggerate natural forms within the landscape. I might juxtapose these with my own collage compositions, exploring visual connections between the two.

 

 

Juliette Losq Sketchbook

 

I tend to favour an A4-A3 sized sketchbook with a hard cover, as this size is large enough to accommodate most ephemera that I collect. The hard cover is a good way of protecting the contents. I occasionally work directly into the sketchbook to draw, so I favour a fairly heavy paper as this leaves the option to work with wet materials as well as glueing and collaging into it.

 

 

 

Other than collected materials that are pasted onto the pages, historically I have worked with fine liner and/or watercolour and ink. These materials allow me to sketch ideas out quickly, or to jot down notes to refer back to. I tend to use Sennelier Ink and Winsor & Newton Indian Ink. I use Winsor & Newton or Cotman watercolours.

 

Juliette Losq Sketchbook

 

 

I use sketchbooks to collect resources that I might refer back to a number of years later, so there is really no sell-by-date for a sketchbook, and I am still referring to one that I began in 2007. I probably refer to notes, plans or images in one of my sketchbooks weekly. For this reason I tend to keep them to hand, on a shelf in my studio.

 

 

Juliette Losq Sketchbook

 

I often make plans for installations in sketchbooks, roughly drawing initial ideas or storing floor pans and SketchUp designs in them. I grid images up, make a note of dimensions, and include an overall plan for how they will ultimately come together. I can then take the book to the site and refer to it whilst I am installing.

Click here to Juliette’s installations

 

 

For me, a sketchbook is a contained go-to place for useful information. Whilst it is not always stored and referred to in chronological order, I have a good grasp of which sketchbook it is in and how it sits in relation to the information around it in that book. So, it is always relatively easy to find. Often, when browsing a sketchbook, I come across an idea or an image from several years ago, that might then form the basis of current work. Recently I found an image of a paper peepshow that I collected when I was on my BA at Wimbledon College of Art between 2004 and 2007. I’d forgotten all about it, but this image features prominently within my current PhD thesis, so it is almost like I had been carrying it around in my mind for all that time – as though somehow having it physically pasted somewhere has embedded it within my consciousness. It’s also interesting that I’ve developed an installation practice, particularly over the last five years, that refers visually back to devices like this. Although I’ve felt like this evolved organically from previous paper installations, it seems like, again, these images were burnt into my visual memory, and have been waiting for a chance to be recalled and used.

 

Juliette Losq Sketchbook

 

 

Sometimes I’ll rediscover something really important. As an example, I’m currently planning a show involving artists who play with scale, working with models and maquettes as part of their process. I’m looking to expand the contemporary artists who will feature in this exhibition, which will take place at the RWA in Bristol at some stage over the next couple of years. Whilst going through my sketchbook I found a pamphlet from the Miniature Worlds exhibition, which took place at the Jerwood Space, London, in 2006. This revealed some really interesting artists who I hadn’t consciously been aware of or considered when curating this show. However, it’s interesting to me that scale and modelmaking were thematic concerns of mine, albeit tangentially, ten or fifteen years ago, and have only recently come to the fore within my practice. I’ve been experimenting with model making and drawing from models over the past five years or so.

 

 

My advice to artists is to see a sketchbook as a useful, practical tool. If it is a useful place to test out colours or techniques, or to sketch about compositions before making a final work, do this. My sketchbooks are certainly not pretty but they are a useful record of historical, current, and future references and ideas.

 

 


 

About Juliette Losq

Juliette Losq is an internationally exhibited, prizewinning artist. She studied Fine Art at the University of the Arts London (2004- 2007) and the Royal Academy Schools (2007-2010), as well as studying English and History of Art at Newnham College, Cambridge (1997-2000) and History of Art at the Courtauld Institute, London (2000-2001).

Juliette won the Jerwood Drawing Prize in 2005, was one of five shortlisted artists for the John Moores Prize in 2014, receiving the Visitor’s Choice Award, and received the John Ruskin Prize in 2019. She was elected to the Royal Institute of Painters in Watercolours and the Guild of St. George in 2020, and became a Royal West of England Academician in 2021.

Juliette’s work seeks to describe the borderlands on the fringes of urban developments, capturing the benign battles waged between man and nature. Her renditions of the (sub)urban landscape are interrupted by the threat of an unknown presence. The dark recesses allow the imagination of the viewer to place where that potential threat might be lurking. She experiments with complexity and scale. Through her use of watercolour she aims to challenge the historical associations of this medium with preparatory sketching in the field, and domestic scale or use.

Follow Juliette on Instagram

Visit Juliette’s website

 

 


 

Further Reading

Inside the Sketchbook of Evie Hatch

Collage for Beginners – What You Need to Get Started

Developing a Daily Drawing Practice With the Royal Drawing School

Juliette Losq: Jackson’s Painting Prize 2021 Expert Judge

 

Shop sketchbooks on jacksonsart.com

 

The post Inside the Sketchbook of Juliette Losq appeared first on Jackson's Art Blog.

On Location At Lutea

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Our ‘On Location’ series reveals where some of the best loved art materials are made, and gives insight into art materials manufacturers’ working methods. Lutea is the name of Anne-Sylvie Godeau’s pigment extraction venture, in which she single handedly uses low impact, organic natural matter to produce harmonious colours, some of which she uses to produce her own line of professional grade watercolours.


 

Lake pigments of carmine cochineal undergoing filtration

 

Why Are There Only Twelve Colours in the Lutea Watercolour Range?

If you’ve ever browsed Lutea Extra-Fine Watercolours on our website, it’s likely that the range of 12 earthy colours may have appeared rather small in comparison to other professional watercolour ranges with 30, 40 or even more colours. But there is a good reason why Lutea’s range may be smaller, yet perfectly formed. Each of the eleven pigments used to create the range has been painstakingly extracted by the hand of pigment expert Anne-Sylvie Godeau. The result is a stunning range of colours that mixes beautifully with one another to create a harmonious palette of natural, sustainable, organic hues. The plant based pigments that have been chosen for the Lutea range have been used since Antiquity, and are colours that have been sought out and enjoyed by painters for centuries. The indigo is extracted from Persicaria Tinctoria while the reds and pinks of Garance are extracted from Ribia Tinctoria. The yellow of Gaude is extracted from Reseda Luteola.

 

 

Outside of Anne-Sylvie’s work producing the Lutea range of colours, she also works regularly with artists, extracting specific pigments to order, from a wider variety of plants. She says, “The range of colours from plants, fungi, insects and molluscs is very wide and can be the subject of numerous research”. The Lutea laboratory is a compact yet well organised space where Anne-Sylvie is able to carry out the extraction, filtration, grinding, and bottling up of pigments.

 

 

How Did Anne-Sylvie Godeau Start Extracting Lutea Pigments At Her Home?

Anne-Sylvie’s background is rooted in Fine Art – she studied Sculpture, Installation and Performance at the ERG – Graphic Research School in Brussels Contemporary Art, graduating in 2003, and then studied a Postgraduate Diploma at the University of Salamanca. After this she continued studying this time in Pedagogy and Agriculture, graduating in 2014. She was offered engraving and screenprinting as a complementary practice to her main studies during her postgraduate diploma, which is where an interest in printmaking and printing on textiles emerged. It was this work that led to an interest in pigments and dyes, and formulating colours for textiles in the first instance. Her studies in learning about pigments and dyes were self-led, seeking out workshops and texts by experts in the field, including Michel Garcia, an expert in pigments and dyes, based in France. Over time she set about investing in the equipment she needed to carry out pigment extraction, and undertook rigorous tests to find the plants that she wished to extract pigments from, seeking light fastness and quality as well as beautiful translucent shades.

 

 

Anne-Sylvie Godeau’s laboratory is truly unique. It’s a far cry from a large-scale production factory, positioned centrally in Belgium to make it easier for clients, artists and students to visit. For Anne-Sylvie Godeau education is an important aspect of Lutea, keeping the traditions of this ancient practice alive for future generations.

 

 

The plants with which she works are either cultivated by Anne-Sylvie, or are recycled from local agricultural residues from farming, while some are gleaned from local wild plants. Only the cochineals come from the Canary Islands, the Logwood from Latin America and the Madder from France, Iran or Morocco. In total, Anne-Sylvie Godeau works with twelve plants and an insect: Walnut husks (Brown), Meadowsweet flowers (Green), Thyme (Dark Orange), Cosmos Sulphureus flowers (Orange), Madder roots (Red and Pink), Cochineal (Carmine), Goldenrod (Yellow), Strawberry leaves (Grey), Logwood extract (Purple), Tormentille plants (Grey), Weld (Yellow) and Persicaria Tinctoria and Rubia Tinctoria (Indigo). She is currently researching into a new colour derived from Avocado peel.

 

Meadowsweet

The Indigo Anne-Sylvie grows and farms herself, at a foundation located at the Balbrière farm in Ottignies, Belgium, called ‘The Growing Tree’. It is just a few minutes’ drive away from Lutea. The foundation is made up of a number of outward-looking businesses and activities, with a focus on holistic ecology and sustainable living practices.

 

Crushed Thyme Plants

 

What Does The Pigment Extraction Process Involve at Lutea?

Plants contain a cocktail of dyes, with each dye having a well-defined role for the plants’ function; sun protection, defence against a predator, divine markers using colours and perfumes to allow fertilisation, and so on. These natural dyes are extracted using a ‘herbal tea’ process, immersing the plants in hot water. Each colour requires water of a certain temperature, and immersion for a specific amount of time. This bathing may happen a number of times over for a plant, in order to get the extraction sought for a particular colour. Metallic salt added to the colour formula will also have an influence on the colour of the pigment. Once the pigment is formed in the liquids through this process of extraction, the colour is filtered and cleaned by pouring through cotton muslin bags. This matter is then dried and finely ground to a Beaux-Art quality.

 

 

Lacquer Pigment And The Chelation Process at Lutea

A dye solution in which a metal salt has been dissolved constitutes a chelate: a hybrid molecule of organic/metallic nature. Such a solution can be used as, in certain cases, a fluid ink. If an alkaline (or basic) substance is added to this solution, the metallic salt decomposes and turns into an insoluble “metallic hydrate”. Coloured particles then form in the solution consisting of the now insoluble metallic substance with which the dye is associated. The set of bright and colourful particles settle at the bottom of the liquid and form a pigment lacquer. (With thanks to Michel Garcia, 2019).

 

 

All lacquers can be frozen to facilitate and improve the filtration process. Different extractions can create different colours – for example a succession of extractions of dyes from the crushed roots form the reds and roses of Madder, to create different reds, pinks and orange pinks.

 

 

All ingredients and factors can influence the outcome of the extraction and filtration processes, such as the climate, the fertilisation, the soil quality and the rainwater that the growing plant experiences. The set of variables found within the process of natural plant-based pigment extraction is vast. This adds to the preciousness of the colour, a quality that is in common with a fine wine, oil or perfume.

 

 

 

Grinding at Lutea

At the end of the grinding, Anne-Sylvie Godeau can observe the colour obtained in the form of pigment before grinding it to optimum particle size and integrating it into a watercolour binder to observe the colour in a binder. The light is then able to pass through it fully. Several grinding stages in different machines are necessary to obtain the desired fineness for grinding with paint binders. This process can take up to 3 different grinding machines. Each pigment needs to be ground to a specific size in order for the appearance and performance of the pigment to be at its optimum. 1 tonne of indigo leaves will, in the end, produce just 10kg of pigment.

 

 

Some of the pigment Anne-Sylvie makes is put into bottles and labelled to be sold as dry powder pigment, while the rest is taken to Isabelle Roeloefs, the Belgian paint maker responsible for Isaro Watercolours and Oil paints. Isabelle blends the pigment into a high quality gum arabic based binder before delivering the paint back to Anne-Sylvie once more, who labels the tubes prior to distribution.

 

 

Lutea’s production is a small-scale, comparatively sustainable, low-impact operation that has extracted pigments successfully for nearly ten years. Lutea watercolours are truly unique in that the person in the photographs is the person that extracts the pigments for every colour in the range. How many other materials do you buy where you can put a name and a face to who made it? This transparency also empowers artists to make informed choices about the colours they wish to work with, perhaps choosing renowned historical colour palettes that have proven to stand the test of time. Contemporary art with a nod to history.

 

 

When you paint with Lutea watercolours, you could justifiably think of it as a collaboration. Not only are you collaborating with the expert craftsmanship of Anne-Sylvie Godeau, but also with the vibrancy and delicacy of the earth’s natural colours.

 

 


 

Watch our On Location film to see the pigment extraction process by Anne Sylvie at Lutea:

 
 


 

Further Reading

Introducing Lutea’s Extra Fine Plant-based Watercolours

A Guide to Watercolour Painting – What You Need to Get Started

On Location at the Two Rivers Paper Mill

In Conversation With Markus Baumgart of Schmincke

 

Shop Lutea at jacksonsart.com

 

The post On Location At Lutea appeared first on Jackson's Art Blog.

We Test the New Michael Harding Watercolours

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The new line of Michael Harding watercolours is over 20 years in the making and it’s finally here. I had the opportunity to try 24 colours out of the 136-colour range to find out what these new paints have to offer. Here are my first impressions.


 

Michael Harding Watercolours – The Colour Range

With 136 individual shades, this new line is larger than the oil range which numbers around 100 colours. There are some familiar colours from the oil range– for example Italian Green Umber, a beautiful and characteristic green earth from the oil range, is also available as a watercolour (albeit made with different pigments). There is also a genuine Lapis Lazuli in the watercolour line, which is one of the most special colours in the oil range. However, there are many new watercolours that are unique to the range and I’m sure oil painters will be wondering if some of them will become available as an oil paint!

 

 

The Consistency of Michael Harding Watercolours

All brands of tubed watercolours vary in consistency and watercolourists have their own preferences. Some paints are long and sticky, while others are shorter in consistency. The Michael Harding Watercolours fall somewhere in between– they aren’t as sticky as, say, Sennelier Watercolours, but they are stickier than Schmincke Horadam. With a few tubes I found that as soon as I unscrewed the cap the colour began to spill out even before I squeezed it. Because of this, I needed to wipe the tube after dispensing the paint in order to avoid the issue of paint drying on the thread. This isn’t necessarily a problem and it’s something I’m happy to do if it means I avoid wasting paint, but it’s not something I need to do for all other brands. This didn’t diminish my enjoyment of the paints, but it’s certainly worth mentioning to artists who are considering them.

 

When the tube is full, the tube should be opened with care

Watercolour paint spilling out of the tube.

 

The Re-wetting Ability of Michael Harding Watercolours

Whether it’s filling empty pans to take on a painting trip, or coming back to a palette after a couple of days out of the studio, I find it essential that watercolours can be reactivated easily with a brush and water after they have dried. The Michael Harding Watercolours behaved excellently in this regard, and I found them readily responsive after a weekend drying in a palette.

 

Rewetting Cerulean Blue (PB36) in the palette.

 

Some Colour Highlights from Michael Harding Watercolours

Here are a few colours I tried that I think are really exceptional:
 

Raw Sienna Dark

Michael Harding Raw Sienna Dark watercolour

Raw Sienna Dark painted out. Increasing the amount of water in the wash increases its granular effect.

 

This brown earth has grit and character. It granulates beautifully and is deeper-bellied than standard Raw Siennas. I really enjoyed mixing this with various blues to get a range of natural greens– it’s a lovely colour for a landscape painter and I will certainly be adding it to my palette.

 

Colour mixtures with Raw Sienna Dark

Colour mixtures with Raw Sienna Dark.

 

Lapis Lazuli

 

I had high expectations for this colour because the Michael Harding Lapis Lazuli oil paint is so beautiful. Some Lapis Lazuli watercolours are a pale blue-grey which can be a bit disappointing when you’re expecting the warm and vibrant shade that we find in the paintings of the Old Masters. I’m very happy to say I wasn’t disappointed by this Lapis Lazuli. The expense of this pigment means that you may not want to use it for colour mixing– synthetic Ultramarine Blue is better for this because its stronger in tinting strength, but Lapis Lazuli is a beautifully soft and evocative shade that can make a really special addition to a palette.

 

 

Titanium Buff

michael harding titanium buff

A velvety wash of Titanium Buff.

 

Titanium Buff is a variation of Titanium White which is adulterated with a small amount of iron oxide, creating a soft, opaque colour that can range between a sandy-beige and a warm grey. Michael Harding’s iteration is a beautiful example. It’s very granulating, so it adds texture to non-granulating colours. It’s very useful for lowering the chroma of colours in a way that looks more natural than mixing with white. Try combining it with a bright yellow to make a near-green that would be great for picking out highlights in foliage. With Ultramarine Blue it makes a soft, bluish grey.
 

Titanium Buff mixes

Mixtures with Titanium Buff.


 

Van Dyke Brown

 

I was really hoping that this colour would be included among the Michael Harding watercolours, as his Van Dyke Brown oil paint is one of my favourite colours. Van Dyke Brown is a historical pigment named after the artist Anthony van Dyck. In masstone it is black, but it dilutes out to a slightly green-toned brown. What is exceptional about Michael Harding’s version is that it uses single earth pigment PBr8, unlike most ranges which use a mixture of iron oxide and black. This single pigment version is much better for colour mixing, and I loved the range of glowing olive greens it made in mixtures with lemon yellow.

 

Van dyke mixtures

Mixtures with Van Dyke Brown

 

Although I only tried a small slice of a very large range, every colour I used was a joy to paint with and it seems that the long wait for these watercolours was worth it. With more than 30 years experience in the oil paint market, Michael Harding has proved himself to be a trusted colourman with an extensive knowledge of pigments and how to bring out their particular characteristics. It’s good to see that his move into watercolour promises to offer the same to watercolourists.

 


 

Further Reading

In Conversation With Michael Harding

A Guide to Watercolour Painting – What You Need to Get Started

On Location: Michael Harding Handmade Artists Colours

Everything You Need to Know About Watercolour Paper

 

Shop Michael Harding Watercolours on jacksonsart.com

 

The post We Test the New Michael Harding Watercolours appeared first on Jackson's Art Blog.

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